Effects of Offshore Sand Motion on Wave Runup from Reflective Beaches by using XBeach Model
Effects of Offshore Sand Motion on Wave Runup from Reflective Beaches by using XBeach Model
复制标题
使用 XBeach 模型研究近海沙运动对反射海滩波浪上升的影响
DOI：
10.2112/si79-050.1
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发表时间：
2017-04
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Chen Yujie
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Xu Zhaoyan;Wang Jun;Liang Bingchen;Chen Yujie
摘要：王，J.;梁，B.，和Chen，Y.，2017.利用XBeach模型研究近岸沙运动对反射海滩波浪爬高的影响。In：Lee，J.L.; Griffiths，T.; Lotan，A.;苏，K-美国，和Lee，J.（eds.），第二届国际水安全研讨会。海洋研究杂志，特刊第79号，页。244-248.椰子溪（佛罗里达），ISSN 0749-0208。海滩的高速旋转和波浪爬高会影响海滩游客的安全。许多野外研究表明，近岸海滩剖面的复杂性和砂体离岸运动，如沙洲及其运动，可能通过改变转折点来影响冲流过程。但对0.3 <0.0 < 4.0的反射海滩的研究较少。本文利用XBeach模型对近海岸泥沙运动的影响进行了一系列数值试验。分析了XBeach模型在不同时刻沙向外海运移时的爬高结果，并将XBeach模型预测的2%爬高（R2%）与经验公式进行了比较。讨论了泥沙向外海运移对波浪爬高分量（波增速度和冲流速度）及波浪能谱的影响。泥沙离岸运动所引起的海滩坡度β的减小不仅是导致爬高减小的原因，而且还引起了泥沙离岸运动所引起的其它一些效应。波浪谱的幅值随沙的离岸迁移而减小，波能向重力带外移动的趋势更加明显。
ABSTRACT Xu, Z.; Wang, J.; Liang, B., and Chen, Y., 2017. Effects of offshore sand motion on wave runup from reflective beaches by using XBeach model. In: Lee, J.L.; Griffiths, T.; Lotan, A.; Suh, K.-S., and Lee, J. (eds.), The 2nd International Water Safety Symposium. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No.79, pp. 244–248. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The safety of the beachgoers is affected by the high speed swash motion and wave run-up at the beach. As many field studies show, complex of nearshore beach profile and sand offshore motion, such as sandbars and its motion, may influence swash processes by changing break point. But few detailed research was made on the reflective beaches (0.3 < ξ0 < 4.0). In the present work, a series numerical tests were carried to investigate the effects of sand offshore motion by XBeach model. The runup results of XBeach model at different time with sand offshore migration were analyzed, and the 2% runup (R2%) predicted by XBeach model and empirical formula are compared. The effects of sand offshore migration on runup components (wave setup ⟨η⟩ and swash S), and wave energy spectrum were discussed. The milder beach gradient β which induced by the sand offshore motion is not only the reason to make the runup height decrease, but also some other effects induced by sand offshore motion. The magnitude of wave spectrum decreases with sand offshore migration, and the trend wave energy shifts to the infra-gravity band becomes more evident.
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DOI：
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发表时间：
1974-06
期刊：
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影响因子：
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影响因子：
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DOI：
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