Development of bodice pattern design by 3D body surface type system based on 3D pattern curvature classification.

我们尝试使用我们为此目的而创建的计算机程序为年轻男性设计每个个体体型的服装样式。在我们的研究中，我们从三维躯干表面和紧身胸衣的“角度”和“线长”两个因素来考察服装的图案制作。图案制作的核心问题是创造一个三维的身体。因此，我们在三维体上研究了二维发育模式的缺陷因素。在已开发的图案上，我们将其研究为“亏角”，而在三维体上，它在图案测量线上以“间隙长度”的形式出现。首先，为了清晰地了解男性三维曲面，我们利用内部三角形网格曲面顶点的集中高斯曲率Kc（亏角= 2π-θ）和外部边界线顶点的集中测地曲率Kc （π-θ）对女性（n = 203）和男性（n = 101）的躯干形状进行了比较。如果曲面上任意点的Kc等于零，则该曲面为可展平面。在曲面上，Kc不为零。内表面形状的Kc和边界曲线上的Kc两个积分值的和等于2π与欧拉数的乘积。每个女性（n=203）和每个男性（n=101）躯干表面的两个曲率之和为相同的值（-2 × 2π）。因此，我们能够比较男性和女性的躯干形状，而不考虑大小。男性躯干形状的主要特征是背部、肩部和侧面，女性躯干形状的主要特征是胸围。尽管男性躯干有一个可展开的表面，但每个人的主要特征都有很大的不同。因此，有必要采用高水平的工艺和技术来制作男式花型。一种无需悬垂的3D图案制作方法是使用计算机编程的凸形法自动设计3D紧身胸衣图案，覆盖男性躯干（n = 150）。我们将这种3D紧身衣称为“凸体紧身衣”，并使用Kc、Kc和平均曲率Hc（指凸面或凹面）对其进行检查。凸体胸体的Kc值小于躯干，因此Kc值较大。与Kc值一样，Hc值也比躯干的值小。采用主成分相关分析法对凸壳胸衣的3个曲率值进行分类。此外，还对六区三线的组合因子进行了分类。我们能够很容易地构建一个紧身胸衣使用计算机程序进行3D绘图。该系统通过显示曲率和间隙值（体积）的彩色分级地图，帮助我们直观地了解表面形状的特征。接下来，我们使用间隙长度和Kc值分析了女性（n = 203）和男性（n = 151）的紧身模式（t型）特征。利用Kc值的主成分分析进行分类，找到了形成t型形状的因素。像上面的三维悬垂技术一样，利用估计的间隙长度绘制图案也可以在计算机辅助下完成。通过对三维躯干表面和紧身胸衣的“角度”和“线长”进行两次检测，我们可以根据体型类型自动进行三维悬垂和绘图。少

We try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body type for young men using a computer program that we created for this purpose. In our study, we examined clothing-pattern making from the point of view of two factors : "angle" and "line length" of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice. The central problem of the pattern-making is to create a three-dimensional body. Therefore, we investigated the deficiency factor on both a two-dimensional developed pattern on 3D bodies. On the developed pattern, we studied it as 'deficit angles', while on 3D bodies, it appeared as 'gap length' on the pattern measurement lines.At first, for a clear understanding of male 3D surface, we compared the torso shape of females (n = 203) and males (n = 101) using the Concentrated Gaussian Curvature Kc (deficit angle = 2π-θ) of the vertices on interior triangle-meshed surface and Concentrated Geodesic Curvature Kc (π-θ) on the vertices of exterior boundary lines. If Kc of an arbitrary poin … More t (vertex) on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said to be a plane and developable one. On a curved surface, Kc is not zero. The sum of two integrated values, Kc of the inside surface shape and kc on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2π and the Euler number. The sum of those two curvatures in the torso surface of each female (n=203) and of each male (n=101) was the same value (-2 × 2π). Due to this, we were able to compare the torso shapes between males and females, regardless of size. The main features of the male torso shape are the back, shoulder, and side surface, and that of the female torso shapes is the bust surface. Although the male torso has a developable surface, the main features differ considerably between each person. Therefore, it is necessary to use high level techniques and technology for male pattern-making. One method for 3D pattern-making, without the draping, is using a computer programmed with the convex method to automatically design 3D bodice patterns which would cover the male torsos (n = 150). We call that 3D bodice the 'convex hull bodices', and examined them using Kc, kc, and Mean Curvature Hc, which refers to be convex or concave surfaces. The Kc values of the convex hull bodices are smaller than those of the torsos, therefore their kc values are large. As with the Kc values, the Hc values are also smaller than those of the torsos. The 3 curvature values of the convex hull bodices are classified using the principal component analysis by correlation. In addition, the combination factors of six areas and three lines were classified. We were able to easily construct a tight-fitting bodice using a computer program to do 3D draping. The system aided us visually understand features of the surface shape through color-graded map displaying curvatures and gap values (volume).Next, we examined the features of the tight-fitting pattern (T-pattern) of females (n = 203) and males (n = 151) using the gap length and Kc values. The factors for making the T-pattern shape were found using the classing the principal component anarisis of the Kc values. Like the above 3D draping technique, drafting pattern-making using the estimated gap lengths may also be finished with aid a computer.As the result of the two examinations using the "angle" and the "line length" on both of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice, we are able to take the automatically pattern-making for both the 3D draping and the drafting according to the types of the body shape. Less