Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

通过计算机开发适合每个人的紧身胸衣图案设计系统

• 批准号: 09680018
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 1.22万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1997
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1997 至 1998
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-09680018/
• 关键词: shape of body curved surfaces; Gaussian Curvature; Geodesic Curvature; Mean Curvature; classification of body and convec bodice type; cnvec method; gap of length and volume; color simuration of three dimensional body and convecbodice; 密着衣服の設計; 体表

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Therefore, the deficiency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated, On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines, And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle)In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the back trunk development and the bodice pattern of front and back were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front and back bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were calculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. Patter … More n making by the like draping system may be finished by using the drafting on the computer.On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability, curve line on development, and the three dimensional curve of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature, Geometric curvature, and Mean Curvature. If only Concentrated Gaussian Curvature(deficiency angle=2pi-theta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that isn't zero. Sum of two integrated values, Concenrated Gaussian Curvature inside a surface and Geodesic Curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. The sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and convec bodice of the two hundred and three young female was the same value (-2x2pi) . The feature of those trunk surfaces and the convec bodices surfaces were grasped as the exchange of the three curvatures, and the color simulations by the different curvatures of them were displayed. The calcultive bodice by convec method with covered the trunk would be designed on the three dimensions by the computer, without the draping. Concenrated Gaussian Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk, therefore Concenrated Geodesic Curvature of the convec bodice was large. And Mean Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk. The convec bodice was a like plane clothing. Five types of the trunk surfaces and convec bodices were classified according to principal component anaysis by correlation. Combination factors of five areas (bust, upper brest, shoulder, back, side areas) and three Lines (neckbace, armscye, waist lines) were classified. The gaps on the three dimentions of between the convec bodice and trunk surface were calculated by the volume. The gaps of bust areas were big, and the gaps of back and upper breast etc. were small. Three factor of body and convec bodice type were classified according to the volume. The curvatures of 181 points of right body and convec bodice surface, and the gaps of the 294 faces of right body and convec bodice were color displayed, making it a highly informative tool for understanding for clothing design. Less

我们将尝试用计算机来设计每一种体型的服装样板。纸样制作的中心问题是利用二维上的布面，在三维上构造出人体的曲面形状。为此，研究了影响人体和服装发育模式的不足因素，在人体和服装的发育模式上，在人体测量线上表现为缝隙长度，在三维人体曲面和服装上，将其理解为50个年轻女性复制品的曲率(缺角)，定量地了解后躯干发育的缝隙长度和前后的紧身图案，并通过它们的值来把握躯干和紧身形状的特征。利用平面几何方程计算出的缝隙长度，可绘制出60名年轻女性的前胸和后胸图案，而不需要进行悬垂。Patter…利用计算机绘图可以完成更多的类似覆盖系统的制作。在三维体曲面和凸壳的上衣曲面上，用高斯曲率、几何曲率和平均曲率定义了它们的三维曲线，并定义了展开曲线。如果只有曲面上任意点的集中高斯曲率(亏角=2pi-theta)等于零，则该曲面可以说是平面，并且是可展的。在曲面上，这不是零。曲面内部的集中高斯曲率和边界曲线上的测地曲率这两个积分值的总和等于2pi和欧拉数的乘积。203名年轻女性的躯干表面和胸肌的两个曲率之和是相同的值(-2x2pi)。将这三种曲率的变化作为行李箱表面和运输车身表面的特征来把握，并用不同的曲率进行色彩模拟。用计算机在三维空间上设计覆盖后备箱的传送法计算紧身衣，不会出现褶皱。输送罩的连续高斯曲率比主干的小，因此输送罩的连续测地线曲率较大。运输胸衣的平均曲率小于躯干的平均曲率。这件紧身上衣就像是飞机上的衣服。根据主成分分析，通过相关分析，将树干表面和输送体分为5种类型。对五个部位(胸部、上胸、肩部、背部、侧部)和三条线(领带、腋窝、腰线)的组合因素进行了分类。根据体积计算出车身与车身表面之间的三维间隙。胸区间隙较大，背、上胸等间隙较小。根据体积大小，将人体三要素和输送紧身型分为三类。彩色显示了右身与胸衣表面181个点的曲率，以及右身与胸衣294个面之间的间隙，为服装设计提供了一个信息量很大的工具。较少

项目成果

Tomoe, Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of the Gap Lengths on the Back Trunk Surface Developed Pattern for Understanding Back Trunk Form in Clothing Design." J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.39. 648-658 (1998)

Tomoe、Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“对后躯干表面间隙长度的估计开发了用于理解服装设计中后躯干形状的模式。”

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "後胴部体表面展開図の間隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 648-658 (1998)

Chie Masuda，Haruki Imaoka：“后躯干身体表面展开视图中间隙尺寸的预测”日本纺织产品和消费者科学学会杂志 39. 648-658 (1998)。

T.Masuda, H.Imaoka: "3D Torso Surface Curvatures asit Relates to Clothing Design" Sen'i Gakkaishi. 54. 299-308 (1998)

T.Masuda、H.Imaoka：“与服装设计相关的 3D 躯干表面曲率”Seni Gakkaishi。

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "立体裁断による前胴部密着衣服原型の空隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 46-57 (1998)

Chie Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“通过立体裁剪预测前躯干紧身服装原型中的空隙尺寸”日本纺织消费者科学学会杂志 39. 46-57 (1998)。