Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

通过计算机开发适合每个人的紧身胸衣图案设计系统

• 批准号: 09680018
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 1.22万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1997
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1997 至 1998
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-09680018/
• 关键词: shape of body curved surfaces; Gaussian Curvature; Geodesic Curvature; Mean Curvature; classification of body and convec bodice type; cnvec method; gap of length and volume; color simuration of three dimensional body and convecbodice; 密着衣服の設計; 体表

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Therefore, the deficiency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated, On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines, And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle)In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the back trunk development and the bodice pattern of front and back were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front and back bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were calculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. Patter … More n making by the like draping system may be finished by using the drafting on the computer.On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability, curve line on development, and the three dimensional curve of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature, Geometric curvature, and Mean Curvature. If only Concentrated Gaussian Curvature(deficiency angle=2pi-theta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that isn't zero. Sum of two integrated values, Concenrated Gaussian Curvature inside a surface and Geodesic Curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. The sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and convec bodice of the two hundred and three young female was the same value (-2x2pi) . The feature of those trunk surfaces and the convec bodices surfaces were grasped as the exchange of the three curvatures, and the color simulations by the different curvatures of them were displayed. The calcultive bodice by convec method with covered the trunk would be designed on the three dimensions by the computer, without the draping. Concenrated Gaussian Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk, therefore Concenrated Geodesic Curvature of the convec bodice was large. And Mean Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk. The convec bodice was a like plane clothing. Five types of the trunk surfaces and convec bodices were classified according to principal component anaysis by correlation. Combination factors of five areas (bust, upper brest, shoulder, back, side areas) and three Lines (neckbace, armscye, waist lines) were classified. The gaps on the three dimentions of between the convec bodice and trunk surface were calculated by the volume. The gaps of bust areas were big, and the gaps of back and upper breast etc. were small. Three factor of body and convec bodice type were classified according to the volume. The curvatures of 181 points of right body and convec bodice surface, and the gaps of the 294 faces of right body and convec bodice were color displayed, making it a highly informative tool for understanding for clothing design. Less

我们将尝试用电脑设计出每个人体型的服装图案。图案制作的核心问题是在二维平面上利用布面在三维空间上构造一个人体曲线形状。因此，对人体和服装发育模式上的缺陷因素进行了研究，在人体和服装发育模式上，它表现为身体测量线上的间隙长度，在三维身体曲面和服装上，它被理解为曲率（缺陷角）。在50个年轻女性复制品中，定量地了解了后躯干发育的间隙长度和前后胸衣模式。并根据它们的价值把握了躯干和胸衣形状的特征。60名年轻女性的前、后胸衣图案可以在不悬垂的情况下，利用平面几何方程计算出的估计间隙长度来绘制。更多类似悬垂系统的制作可以在电脑上绘图完成。。利用高斯曲率、几何曲率和平均曲率定义了凸壳的三维体表面和胸表面的可展性、展开曲线及其三维曲线。如果一个曲面上任意点的集中高斯曲率（亏角=2pi- θ）为零，则该曲面可称为平面，且可展为平面。在曲面上，它不为零。曲面内的集中高斯曲率和边界曲线上的测地线曲率两个积分值的和等于2 π与欧拉数的乘积。203只雌象的每个躯干表面和凸身的两个曲率之和相同（-2x2pi）。将这些躯干表面和凸身表面的特征作为三种曲率的交换，并显示了它们的不同曲率的颜色模拟。用计算机在三维空间上设计无悬垂的带罩计算紧身胸衣。凸身的集中高斯曲率小于主干，因此凸身的集中测地线曲率较大。而胸衣的平均曲率小于躯干的平均曲率。紧身胸衣是一种类似飞机的服装。采用主成分相关分析法，对车体表面和车体进行了分类。对5个区域（胸围、上胸、肩、背、侧）和3条线（颈、臂、腰线）的组合因素进行分类。通过体积计算了凸身与躯干表面之间三维空间的间隙。胸围间隙较大，背部、上乳等间隙较小。根据体积大小对体型和凸型三个因素进行了分类。右身和紧身胸衣表面的181个点的曲率，以及右身和紧身胸衣的294个面之间的间隙都用彩色显示出来，是一个信息量很大的服装设计理解工具。少

项目成果

Tomoe, Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of the Gap Lengths on the Back Trunk Surface Developed Pattern for Understanding Back Trunk Form in Clothing Design." J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.39. 648-658 (1998)

Tomoe、Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“对后躯干表面间隙长度的估计开发了用于理解服装设计中后躯干形状的模式。”

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "後胴部体表面展開図の間隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 648-658 (1998)

Chie Masuda，Haruki Imaoka：“后躯干身体表面展开视图中间隙尺寸的预测”日本纺织产品和消费者科学学会杂志 39. 648-658 (1998)。

T.Masuda, H.Imaoka: "3D Torso Surface Curvatures asit Relates to Clothing Design" Sen'i Gakkaishi. 54. 299-308 (1998)

T.Masuda、H.Imaoka：“与服装设计相关的 3D 躯干表面曲率”Seni Gakkaishi。

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "立体裁断による前胴部密着衣服原型の空隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 46-57 (1998)

Chie Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“通过立体裁剪预测前躯干紧身服装原型中的空隙尺寸”日本纺织消费者科学学会杂志 39. 46-57 (1998)。