Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

通过计算机开发适合每个人的紧身胸衣图案设计系统

• 批准号: 09680018
• 负责人: MASUDA Tomoe
• 金额: $ 1.22万
• 依托单位: Mie University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1997
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1997 至 1998
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-09680018/
• 关键词: shape of body curved surfaces; Gaussian Curvature; Geodesic Curvature; Mean Curvature; classification of body and convec bodice type; cnvec method; gap of length and volume; color simuration of three dimensional body and convecbodice; 密着衣服の設計; 体表

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Therefore, the deficiency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated, On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines, And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle)In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the back trunk development and the bodice pattern of front and back were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front and back bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were calculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. Patter … More n making by the like draping system may be finished by using the drafting on the computer.On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability, curve line on development, and the three dimensional curve of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature, Geometric curvature, and Mean Curvature. If only Concentrated Gaussian Curvature(deficiency angle=2pi-theta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that isn't zero. Sum of two integrated values, Concenrated Gaussian Curvature inside a surface and Geodesic Curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. The sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and convec bodice of the two hundred and three young female was the same value (-2x2pi) . The feature of those trunk surfaces and the convec bodices surfaces were grasped as the exchange of the three curvatures, and the color simulations by the different curvatures of them were displayed. The calcultive bodice by convec method with covered the trunk would be designed on the three dimensions by the computer, without the draping. Concenrated Gaussian Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk, therefore Concenrated Geodesic Curvature of the convec bodice was large. And Mean Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk. The convec bodice was a like plane clothing. Five types of the trunk surfaces and convec bodices were classified according to principal component anaysis by correlation. Combination factors of five areas (bust, upper brest, shoulder, back, side areas) and three Lines (neckbace, armscye, waist lines) were classified. The gaps on the three dimentions of between the convec bodice and trunk surface were calculated by the volume. The gaps of bust areas were big, and the gaps of back and upper breast etc. were small. Three factor of body and convec bodice type were classified according to the volume. The curvatures of 181 points of right body and convec bodice surface, and the gaps of the 294 faces of right body and convec bodice were color displayed, making it a highly informative tool for understanding for clothing design. Less

我们将试着用电脑设计出适合每个人体型的服装纸样。纸样制作的中心问题是利用二维的布平面构造三维的人体曲线形状。因此，对人体与服装展开图的不足因素进行了研究，在人体与服装展开图上，它表现为人体测量线上的差距长度，在三维人体曲面与服装上，它被理解为曲率（缺角）对50个青年女性的后躯干发育的差距长度和前后衣片的式样进行定量的了解，通过价值观把握躯干和衣身造型的特征。用平面几何方程计算出的估算间隙长度，可在不打褶的情况下，绘制60名青年女性前后衣片纸样。图案化 ...更多信息 用高斯曲率、几何曲率和平均曲率定义了三维船体曲面和cacnvex船体的体部曲面的可展性、展开曲线和它们的三维曲线。只要曲面上任意点的集中高斯曲率（亏角= 2 π-θ）等于零，则该曲面可称为平面可展曲面。在曲面上，它不等于零。曲面内部的集中高斯曲率和边界曲线上的测地曲率这两个积分值之和等于2 pi和欧拉数的乘积。203只雌性青年的躯干和躯干躯干的两个曲面的曲率之和为-2 × 2 pi。通过三种曲率的交换来把握树干表面和凸面体表面的特征，并显示它们不同曲率的颜色模拟。用计算机进行三维无立体裁剪设计，可实现对衣身的立体裁剪。紧身衣的集中高斯曲率小于躯干的集中高斯曲率，因此紧身衣的集中测地曲率较大。紧身胸衣的平均曲率小于躯干的平均曲率。这件紧身胸衣就像飞机上的衣服。根据主成分分析，用相关分析法将树干表面和树干体划分为5种类型。对胸围、上胸围、肩、背、侧围五个部位和领口、臂围、腰线三条线的组合因子进行分类。通过体积计算出衣身与躯干表面的三维间隙。胸部的间隙较大，背部、上胸等部位的间隙较小。按体积大小对体型和紧身衣体型的三个因子进行了分类。通过对人体右侧体和紧身衣曲面181个点的曲率、人体右侧体和紧身衣曲面294个面的间隙进行彩色显示，为服装设计提供了一个信息量很大的理解工具。少

项目成果

Tomoe, Masuda, Haruki Imaoka: "Estimation of the Gap Lengths on the Back Trunk Surface Developed Pattern for Understanding Back Trunk Form in Clothing Design." J.Text.End-Uses.Jpn.39. 648-658 (1998)

Tomoe、Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“对后躯干表面间隙长度的估计开发了用于理解服装设计中后躯干形状的模式。”

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "後胴部体表面展開図の間隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 648-658 (1998)

Chie Masuda，Haruki Imaoka：“后躯干身体表面展开视图中间隙尺寸的预测”日本纺织产品和消费者科学学会杂志 39. 648-658 (1998)。

T.Masuda, H.Imaoka: "3D Torso Surface Curvatures asit Relates to Clothing Design" Sen'i Gakkaishi. 54. 299-308 (1998)

T.Masuda、H.Imaoka：“与服装设计相关的 3D 躯干表面曲率”Seni Gakkaishi。

増田智恵, 今岡春樹: "立体裁断による前胴部密着衣服原型の空隙寸法の予測" 日本繊維製品消費科学会誌. 39. 46-57 (1998)

Chie Masuda、Haruki Imaoka：“通过立体裁剪预测前躯干紧身服装原型中的空隙尺寸”日本纺织消费者科学学会杂志 39. 46-57 (1998)。