Objective Evaluation of Ease Abilities and Measurement of Formabilities of Fabrics

本研究的目的是确定对松弛能力的客观评价，并检验松弛能力与力学性能的相关性。结果表明，在平缝机上采用差动送料的织物松弛方法，能有效地提高松弛比，且不存在随意性。用试制的触针仪所配备的触针法测量了织物因松弛而产生的沿缝线的局部应变，并用该针法绘制的织物的皱纹轮廓进行了评估。结果表明，该方法得到的描边曲线是根据织物的性能和松弛比来表征的，描边曲线的高度和褶皱数随松弛比的增加而增加。用云纹拓扑法测量了零件的易成形性，并用该装置进行了三维形状测量。测试结果表明，织物表面的最大曲率与压力、弯曲刚度和弹性有关。

The purpose of the present investigation was to determine the objective evaluation of the ease abilities,and to examine the correlation of the ease abilities with mechanical properties. Results showed that the easing method in fabrics by using the differential feed in the lockstich sewing machine was effective on produsing the ease ratio without arbitrary. The local strain of fabric along seam caused by ease were measured by the stylus method provided with stylus instrument trially manufactured,and assessed by the wrinkle contour of fabric traced by this stylus method.The results obtained by this method showed that the tracing curves were characterized according to fabric properties and ease ratio.The hight of tracing curves and number of pucker increased with increasing ease ratio. The formability by ease was measured by Moire Topograpy method and used by the device for three dimenssional shape measurement. Results of this measurement indicated that the maximum curvature of the curved surface on the fabrics was related to compressive force,bending stiffness and elasticity.