Observational study to determine the causes of the freak wave generation in the open ocean

为了了解畸形波的产生机制，GPS波浪观测系统，利用现有的浮标停泊在深海（~5400米）和漂流浮标开发。在日本附近观测到了波高超过13米的怪浪和18米左右的巨浪，这是该地区首次进行为期一年的观测。基于这些观测证据，我们验证了反常海指数，并分析了日本附近的海上事故案例。此外，我们还对浮标测风资料进行了分析，发现在某些情况下，阵风事件与反常的海面事件同时发生，这在可能的海气相互作用方面是一个新的发现。

To understand the freak wave generation mechanism, GPS wave observation systems utilizing an existing buoy moored in a deep ocean (~5400 m) and a drifting buoy were developed. Freak waves exceeding 13 m in wave height and giant waves around 18 m were observed near Japan, over a yearlong observations, for the first time in this region. Based on these observational evidences, we have validated the freakish sea index and analyzed marine accident cases near Japan. In addition, we have analyzed the wind data from the buoy and discovered that for certain cases the wind gust events occur concurrently with the freakish sea event, which is a new finding in the possible air-sea interaction.