Analysis of garment silhouette and material design for the beautiful and comfort clothing life

本研究的样品由纺织品设计专业人士、Tsuyakin Kogyo Co. Ltd.前技术总监Mori博士准备。为了确定为什么与日本相比，意大利生产的织物被评价为“富含感性“，准备了两组织物。使用KES-KB织物测量系统（Kato-Tech）测量织物机械性能。另一方面，对这些织物进行了处理试验。研究对象共21人，包括纺织专业人员、学生和消费者。在这个感官测试中，织物被分为五个等级，从手感差的1到手感丰富的5。对意大利面料的评判平均值很高，夏季西装面料为4.0，冬季面料为4.6。而日本人则分别为2.8和2.4。为了分析两组织物之间的差异，测试了针穿过织物的织物穿透阻力。对KES-FB 3压缩试验机进行了改造， ...更多信息 e.穿透阻力。意大利织物的针入阻力较小，而日本织物的针入阻力很大。而且，在日本织物中，从织物中拔出针时的阻力也很大。制备由粗羊毛制成的2.2/2斜纹织物，其类似于所谓的Harris粗花呢。然后在原织物上增加16种整理工艺。对原织物进行缩绒、树脂涂层、柔软、石英砂整理、不同次数的氧化还原整理和酶整理。使用KES-KB织物测量系统测量织物的机械性能。对17种织物，对5名纺织专业人员和50名学生进行了11对手感词的感官测试。讨论了计算手形值、KOSHI、FUKURAMI、总手形值（THV）和总外观值（TAV）与客观评判的关系。在本研究中，指尖型附着物在KES-FB 5表面测试仪上的测试结果比一般的手指型附着物更能有效地评估花呢织物的手感。3.衬料面料是融合在面料的背面，并保持服装的轮廓。采用氩等离子体对三种面料进行表面处理，并分别在其上粘合衬。本研究所用的衬料为含聚酰胺树脂的涤纶平纹织物。在相同的条件下制备了面料和衬料的复合织物。使用KES-FB测试系统测量织物的机械性能。用KES-FB 1型强力仪测定了衬料与面料的剥离强力。在所有样品中，等离子体处理的织物的剥离强度大于未处理的。该结果表明，等离子体处理对粘附能力是有效的。在等离子体处理的样品中观察到粘合剂树脂渗透到面料中。抗弯刚度也通过等离子体处理增加。少

Samples for this study are prepared by Dr. Mori who is a professional in textile design and former technical director of Tsuyakin Kogyo Co. Ltd.To make sure that why the fabrics manufactured in Italy are evaluated as so called"kansei-rich"compared with Japanese ones, two groups of fabrics were prepared. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-KB fabric measurement system, Kato-Tech. Ltd. On the other hand, handling test of these fabrics was conducted. Number of subjects were 21, including professionals in textile, students and consumers. In this sensory test, fabrics were judged in five degree, from poor handle, 1, to rich handle, 5. The mean values of judge against Italian fabrics were very high, 4.0 for summer suiting and 4.6 for winter. Meanwhile, those of Japanese were 2.8 and 2.4, respectively. To analyze the difference between two groups of fabrics fabric penetration resistances of needle through fabric were measured. KES-FB3 compression tester was modified to measur … More e the penetration resistance. The needle penetration resistances of the Italian fabrics were small, while Japanese were very large. And, the resistances when drawing out of the needle from fabrics are also large in Japanese fabrics. 2.2/2 twill fabrics made of course wool which were similar to so called Harris Tweed were prepared. Then 16 kinds of finishing process were added to the original fabrics. The original fabric is finished in different finishing methods, milling, coated by resin, softening, quarts sand finish, different times of oxidation-reduction finishes and enzyme treatment. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-KB fabric measurement system. For seventeen fabrics, sensory test about 11 couples of words concerning handle feeling was operated against 5 persons who have been concerning with textile professionally and 50 students. Relationships between calculated hand values, KOSHI, FUKURAMI, total hand value(THV) and total appearance value(TAV) and objective judges are discussed. In this study finger-tip type attachment for the KES-FB5 Surface Tester are very effective to evaluate the hand feelings of tweed fabrics than ordinal finger-pattern type attachment. 3.Interlining fabric is fused on the back side of the face fabric and keeps the silhouette of garments. Three types of face fabric were treated by argon-plasma and then fusible interlining is adhered on them respectively. Interlining used in this study was polyester plain weave fabric with polyamide resin. Composite fabric of face and interlining fabrics is prepared under the same conditions between samples. Fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB measuring system. Peeling strength of interlinings from face fabric is measured using KES-FB1 tensile tester. Peeling strengths were larger in plasma treated fabrics than untreated in all samples. This result shows that plasma treatment is effective to the adhesion ability. Penetration of adhesive resin to face fabric is observed in the plasma treated samples photographically. Bending stiffness also increases by plasma treatment. Less