Tweed: History, Culture and Design

粗花呢是一种广泛使用和国际流行的纺织品，起源于19世纪20年代的苏格兰。这个项目旨在极大地提高人们对这种尚未得到充分研究的纺织品的认识。例如，Clifford Gulvin的《The Tweedmakers》是关于粗花呢历史的最后一本主要学术出版物，写于近40年前，现在迫切需要用更先进的方法重新解读这种纺织品。此外，这个项目将是第一个研究20世纪和21世纪工厂生产花呢的历史的项目。自2001年以来，这位研究人员一直在研究粗花呢，主要集中在19世纪晚期。该奖学金将大大进一步发展和扩展这一跨学科研究。这项研究的国际传播将主要通过一本名为Tweed的重要书籍，由伯格出版社出版。这本出版物将探索花呢的历史，包括它的制造、设计和消费，从19世纪20年代到现在。该项目将是第一个深入考虑不同类型花呢历史之间至关重要的相互联系的项目，从手工制作的哈里斯花呢到来自英国大陆的工厂生产的花呢。这项研究将主要集中在英国的情况下，但考虑到对该行业出口的重要性，它也将研究粗花呢的国际消费。例如，伯纳特•克莱因（Bernat Klein）设计并在苏格兰边境生产的色彩鲜艳的花呢，在20世纪60年代被法国时装设计师广泛使用。这个项目还将进一步发展以前关于粗花呢与十九世纪后期在阶级、性别、地方和民族特征方面的重大社会和文化变化之间的相互关系的研究。例如，在那个时代，粗花呢被强烈地标记为男性化，该项目将探索性别关系的变化是否在这些纺织品的设计和消费中继续发挥重要作用。该研究人员之前的一篇创新文章展示了粗花呢与地点或景观的重要物理和概念联系，以及19世纪后期关于英国、苏格兰和英格兰身份的不断变化的想法。本研究将扩展到检验迄今为止尚未探索的时尚纺织品与晚期现代性和后现代性时代的城乡景观之间的关系。在当代媒体中，粗花呢经常与英国特色、英国特色、遗产和传统联系在一起。此外，玛丽·昆特（Mary Quant）和薇薇安·韦斯特伍德（Vivienne Westwood）等著名时装设计师对粗花呢的诠释，集中在对其所谓的“传统”特征的迷恋上。本研究旨在探索和解释这些内涵如何与这种纺织品的历史联系起来，以及为什么它们具有如此强烈的当代共鸣。该项目还涉及更广泛的目标，旨在发展和鼓励新的跨学科方法来研究羊毛纺织品。通过对粗花呢的设计和消费的关注，它试图对英国羊毛纺织品的现有研究提出另一种问题，这些研究几乎完全集中在用经济史方法研究1830年以前的英国贸易。关于粗花呢的已发表研究很少，这意味着这本书将主要利用原始资料，其中大部分以前没有发表过。例如，这将包括苏格兰国家博物馆收藏的Ceemo Tweed和Bernat Klein收藏品。它还将包括采访与当代粗花呢行业有关的个人。这项研究还将通过与苏格兰边境委员会博物馆和画廊服务的合作伙伴关系进行传播，这将涉及合作举办展览和相关的教育活动。

Tweed is a widely used and internationally popular textile that has its origins in Scotland in the 1820s. This project aims to significantly advance knowledge about this hugely under-researched textile. For example, Clifford Gulvin's The Tweedmakers, which was the last major academic publication on the history of tweed, was written nearly forty years ago and there is a strong need to re-interpret this textile using more up-to-date methods. Furthermore, this project will be the first to examine the history of factory-produced tweeds in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. The researcher has been studying tweed since 2001, work that has primarily focused on the late nineteenth century. This Fellowship will substantially further develop and extend this inter-disciplinary investigation. The international dissemination of the research will primarily be through a major book, titled Tweed, to be published by Berg Publishers.This publication will explore the history of tweed including its manufacture, design and consumption from its emergence in the 1820s to the present. The project will be the first to consider in depth the crucially important inter-connections between the histories of different types of tweed, from craft-produced Harris tweeds, to factory-produced ones from the British mainland. The research will focus primarily on British contexts, but given the importance of exports to this industry, it will also examine the international consumption of tweed. For example, exuberantly coloured tweeds designed by Bernat Klein and made in the Scottish Borders were widely used by French couturiers in the 1960s. This project will also further develop previous research on the inter-relationships of tweed with major social and cultural changes in terms of class, gender and local and national identities in the late nineteenth century. For example, in that era tweed was strongly coded as masculine and the project will explore whether changing gender relationships have continued to play an important role in the design and consumption of these textiles. A previous innovative article by the researcher has shown the important physical and conceptual links of tweed with place or landscape and with changing ideas about British, Scottish, and English identities in the late nineteenth century. This research will be extended to examine the hitherto unexplored relationships between fashion textiles and urban and rural landscapes in the eras of late modernity and post-modernity. Tweed is often associated in contemporary media with Britishness, Englishness, heritage and tradition. Furthermore, the interpretation of tweed by leading fashion designers, such as Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood, has focused on a fascination with its supposedly 'traditional' character. This study seeks to explore and explain how these connotations relate to the history of this textile and why they have such a strong contemporary resonance. The project also addresses the broader objective of aiming to develop and encourage new interdisciplinary approaches to the study of wool textiles. Through its focus on the design and consumption of tweed, it seeks to raise alternative questions to the existing research on British wool textiles, which focuses almost exclusively on taking economic history approaches to the English trade before 1830. The scarcity of published research on tweed means that the book will mainly draw on original sources, most of which have not been previously published. For example, this will include the Ceemo Tweed and Bernat Klein Collections held by National Museums Scotland. It will also involve interviews with individuals linked to the contemporary tweed industry. The research will also be disseminated through a partnership with Scottish Borders Council Museum and Gallery Service, which will involve collaborating on the development of an exhibition and associated education events.