Searching for the New Woman in Nottingham: Cycling, Fashion and Feminism (1885-1925)

背景：该项目是第一个检查实体化“新女性”的视觉表现并在诺丁汉定位新女性的项目。结合时尚史与视觉和物质文化分析，我的博士学位评估了诺丁汉丰富的自行车历史和女性劳动力对女权主义运动和新女性话语的价值。作为一个备受争议但研究不足的女性主义历史结构，新女性同时是第一波女性主义的象征，也是“新”威胁的象征，她的“男性化”时尚和受过教育的国家威胁着父权制。诺丁汉-一个“明显女性化的现代城市”（Daniels &里克罗夫特，1993）--女权主义运动的历史（罗伯茨，2022）和强大，勤劳的女性劳动力是理想的场所。诺丁汉城市档案馆（包括罗利、约翰·普莱尔）拥有大量的照片、广告和剪报，这些资料在《新女性》的史学中被忽视了。对这些材料的初步研究表明，它将新女性呈现为一种独特的现代自我重塑的理想，挑战了主导历史编纂的负面形象，并纠正了学术界对这一时期女性的理解缺乏“冷静”。我的项目支持在艺术和人文检索不同的历史和挑战的包容和exclusion.Key问题的既定模式的关键工作：什么是新女性的视觉表现，一般和诺丁汉？1885-1925年，新女性如何为诺丁汉的女性化地位和工业做出贡献？视觉证据揭示了新女性在全国和地方的文化接受情况？7 /23诺丁汉丰富的自行车历史和新女性运动与更广泛的女权主义事业有关吗？诺丁汉的女性劳动力通过时尚、体育活动和政治信仰体现了新女性吗？方法：-关键档案的定性分析，包括广告，营销，宣传材料/剪报，照片。1885-1925年女权运动关键时刻的案例研究。开发一个编码的视觉数据库，以支持视觉符号的量化和内容分析。框架分析，以组织，建设，并区分话语关于女权主义，新女性和女性自行车（戈夫曼，1974）。影响：更充分的知识和新女性的竞争视野的理解是至关重要的feministististories和妇女的身份更广泛的问题。关注自行车在这种视觉中的代表性是探索这一时期女性的机构和力量以及设计和技术所扮演的角色的一种新方式。罗利描述自行车作为“自由机器”在19世纪90年代（罗利，2022年）。然而，骑自行车的新女性面临着深刻的社会反对，包括骑自行车危及其生殖潜力的论点（Jungnickel，2018）。今天，英国仍然远远落后于欧洲国家，只有一个女人骑自行车旅行，每四个男人（CyclingUK，2022）。女性自行车运动中存在信心-而不是能力-差距，部分原因是文化压力仍然存在于女性身上，以保持女性气质（CyclingUK，2017）。通过诺丁汉新女性的新历史，以一个公共展览达到高潮，这个项目挑战了围绕妇女，自行车和女性气质的持续矛盾。时间轴（月）：1-6：入门，编码培训和档案工作（数据收集和组织）6-12：与主要档案馆密切合作（约翰·普莱尔，罗利，诺丁汉市（摄影集）12-24：进行实地考察，章节计划，数据分析，迄今为止的审查工作（找出知识中的任何剩余差距）。24 -30：会议论文，章节起草，展览策划。30 -36：章节起草，展览策划。第36 -42章：起草/修订。S

Context:This project is the first to examine the visual representations of the embodied 'New Woman' and tolocate the New Woman in Nottingham. Combining fashion history with visual and material culturalanalysis, my PhD assesses the value of Nottingham's rich history of cycling and the female workforce tothe feminist movement and New Woman discourses. A hotly contested yet under-researched construct infeminist history, the New Woman was simultaneously an icon of first-wave feminism and symbolic of thethreat of the 'new', her 'mannish' fashions and educated state threatened patriarchal systems.Nottingham - a 'distinctly feminised version of a modern city' (Daniels & Rycroft,1993) - with its historyof feminist activism (Roberts, 2022) and strong, industrious female workforce is the ideal locus.Nottingham City Archives (including Raleigh, John Player) holds numerous photographs, advertisements,and press-cuttings, sources overlooked in the historiography of the New Woman. A pilot study of thismaterial suggests that it presents the New Woman as a distinctly modern ideal of self-refashioning,challenging the negative imagery that dominates the historiography and redressing the absence of'coolness' in academic understanding of women of this period. My project supports critical work in artsand humanities retrieving diverse histories and challenging established models of inclusion andexclusion.Key Questions:What were the visual manifestations of the New Woman, both generally and within Nottingham?How did the New Woman contribute to Nottingham's feminised status and industries 1885-1925?What does visual evidence reveal about the cultural reception of the New Woman nationally and locally?7 / 23Did Nottingham's rich cycling history and the New Woman relate to the wider feminist cause?Did Nottingham's female workforce embody the New Woman through fashion, physical activity andpolitical belief?Methods:-Qualitative analysis of key archives, including advertising, marketing, promotional material/presscuttings, photographs.-Case studies of key moments within the feminist movement between 1885-1925.-Develop a coded visual database to support quantification and content analysis of visual signifiers.-Frame analysis to organise, construct, and differentiate discourses regarding feminisms, the NewWoman and female cycling (Goffman, 1974).Impact:Fuller knowledge and understanding of the competing visions of the New Woman is critical to feministhistories and wider questions of women's identity. Focus on the representation of cycling in such visionsis a new way to explore the agency and power of women in this period and the role played by design andtechnology. Raleigh described bikes as 'freedom machines' in the 1890's (Raleigh, 2022). Yet the cyclingNew Woman faced profound societal opposition, including the contention that cycling jeopardised theirreproductive potential (Jungnickel, 2018). Today the UK remains much further behind European countries,with just one cycling trip made by a woman for every 4 by a man (CyclingUK, 2022). There's aconfidence - not competence - gap in women's cycling due, partly, to cultural pressure still placed uponwomen to maintain their femininity (CyclingUK, 2017). Through a new history of Nottingham's NewWomen culminating with a public exhibition, this project challenges continuing contradictionssurrounding women, cycling, and femininity.Timeline (Months):1-6: Induction, training in coding and working with archives (data collection and organisation)6-12: Work closely with key archives (John Player, Raleigh, Nottingham City (photographic collections)12-24: Conduct site visits, chapter plan, data analysis, review work to date (identify any remaining gapswithin knowledge).24-30: Conference papers, chapter drafting, exhibition planning.30-36: Chapter drafting, exhibition planning cont., review.36-42: Chapter drafting/revisions. S