"Surface waves, hydrodynamics and geological processes in coastal environments"

海洋、河口和湖泊的沿海地区极具活力，对加拿大来说是一个巨大的经济和环境重要领域。成功地监测、了解和预测沿海过程对于我们确定和尽量减少沿海灾害的能力至关重要，这些灾害包括风暴造成的海岸侵蚀和洪水、地表水中污染物的迁移以及与气候变化有关的长期地貌演变。最近，模拟波浪、海流和沉积过程的计算机模型已经发展到可以三维模拟不同物理过程的累积效应的程度。然而，描述物理和地质过程的表达式在很大程度上是根据经验得出的，并限于特定条件。由四名硕士和两名博士生进行的研究将包括在新的实地环境中观察海岸过程，开发新的数值公式，以及模拟特定地点的波浪和沉积过程，以解决社会经济问题，包括在海洋环境中实施大规模可再生能源计划的环境影响。这项研究将推动艺术和提高我们对沿海环境中复杂和相互关联的物理和地质过程的理解。该研究计划旨在导致更好的沿海观测和预测数值模型的发展和完善。这将提供新的见解有关的基本过程，管理波和电流之间的相互作用，有助于我们的理解在浅水波的转换（通常小于20米深）和沉积物再悬浮，并预测可再生能源结构所造成的海洋环境的变化。这些发现将使加拿大受益，培训六名新的沿海专家，并为沿海工程师、科学家、管理人员和政策制定者提供保护环境的重要信息。

Coastal areas of oceans, estuaries and lakes are extremely dynamic and represent a huge area of economic and environmental importance to Canada. The successful monitoring, understanding and prediction of coastal processes is critical to our ability to determine and minimize coastal hazards, including coastal erosion and flooding from storms, transport of contaminants in surface water, and longer-term geomorphological evolution associated with climate change. Recently, computer models that simulate waves, currents and sedimentary processes have advanced to the point where the cumulative effects of different physical processes can be simulated in three dimensions. However, the expressions that describe the physical and geological processes are largely empirically derived and limited to specific conditions. Research conducted by four Master's and two Doctoral students will include observation of coastal processes in new field environments, development of new numerical formulations, and simulation of wave and sediment processes at specific sites to address socioeconomic issues, including the environmental effects of implementing large-scale renewable energy schemes in the marine environment.This research will advance the state-of-the-art and improve our understanding of complex and interconnected physical and geological processes in coastal environments. The research program is designed to lead toward better coastal observations and the development and refinement of predictive numerical models. This will provide new insight concerning the fundamental processes governing the interactions between waves and currents, contribute to our understanding of wave transformation in shallow water (typically less than 20 m depth) and sediment resuspension, and predict changes to the marine environment imposed by renewable energy structures. The discoveries will benefit Canada by training six new coastal experts, and providing critical information for coastal engineers, scientists, managers and policy makers to protect the environment.