Palatable disruption: the politics of plant milk.

Palatable disruption: the politics of plant milk.
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DOI:
10.1007/s10460-020-10022-y
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发表时间:
2020
影响因子:
4.5
通讯作者:
Lorimer J
Lorimer J
中科院分区:
法学3区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Clay N;Sexton AE;Garnett T;Lorimer J

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在过去的十年里,植物性牛奶替代品(mylks)越来越受欢迎。我们认为mylks所助长的政治和消费者主观性是更广泛的“植物性”食品趋势的一部分。我们展示了mylk公司如何继承和战略性地部署牛奶的积极框架作为健康和方便,以及乳制品的负面框架作为环境破坏和残酷,将植物基定位为“更好”的替代品。通过驾驭这种情感景观,品牌试图(重新)使Mylk既可口又能颠覆现状。我们通过可口破坏的概念来研究mylks的政治,鼓励人们关心环境,健康和动物福利,以采用mylks,但最终仍然是商品食品的消费者。通过鼓励消费者以“植物为基础”作为科普环境灾难和生活失衡的一种方式,mylks促进了一种新自由主义伦理:他们将系统性问题个体化,并进一步巩固市场机制作为解决方案,从而加强了工业化农业的政治经济。最后,我们反思了目前以植物为基础的趋势在向更公正和可持续的粮食生产和消费过渡方面的局限性。
Plant-based milk alternatives–or mylks–have surged in popularity over the past ten years. We consider the politics and consumer subjectivities fostered by mylks as part of the broader trend towards ‘plant-based’ food. We demonstrate how mylk companies inherit and strategically deploy positive framings of milk as wholesome and convenient, as well as negative framings of dairy as environmentally damaging and cruel, to position plant-based as the ‘better’ alternative. By navigating this affective landscape, brands attempt to (re)make mylk as simultaneously palatable and disruptive to the status quo. We examine the politics of mylks through the concept of palatable disruption, where people are encouraged to care about the environment, health, and animal welfare enough to adopt mylks but to ultimately remain consumers of a commodity food. By encouraging consumers to reach for “plant-based” as a way to cope with environmental catastrophe and a life out of balance, mylks promote a neoliberal ethic: they individualize systemic problems and further entrench market mechanisms as solutions, thereby reinforcing the political economy of industrial agriculture. In conclusion, we reflect on the limits of the current plant-based trend for transitioning to more just and sustainable food production and consumption.
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