From Colonial Hoof to Metropolitan Table: The Imperial Biopolitics of Beef Provisioning in Colonial Korea

From Colonial Hoof to Metropolitan Table: The Imperial Biopolitics of Beef Provisioning in Colonial Korea
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从殖民地蹄子到大都市餐桌:朝鲜殖民地牛肉供应的帝国生物政治

DOI:
10.1080/20549547.2022.2159708
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发表时间:
2023
期刊:
Global Food History
影响因子:
--
通讯作者:
Mitsuda Tatsuya
Mitsuda Tatsuya
中科院分区:
--
文献类型:
--
作者:
Weibin Wang;Qingqing Chen;Risheng Deng;Fang Wang;岩本祐太郎;韓先花;Lanfen Lin;陳延偉;床呂 郁哉;Mitsuda Tatsuya

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与对漫长的19世纪欧洲、美洲和澳大拉西亚之间的跨洋肉类贸易发展的研究相比,对东亚肉类贸易如何国际化的了解相对较少。本文通过调查日本如何利用殖民地朝鲜的牛资源来填补这一文献空白。作为一部“从牛蹄到餐桌的历史”,它解释了官僚、农业科学家、兽医和商人如何构建帝国的技术科学制度,使之不仅能够将朝鲜牛的身体改良和消毒成适合日本人口味的肉类,而且还能够将它们活着而不是死的运输出去。它还表明,基于西方品种和模式的育种失败如何导致政策逆转,维护韩国牛的“纯度”。由于受到韩国牛肉可能上级日本牛肉的威胁,这篇文章论证了帝国肉类如何发挥作用,压制牛的“韩国性”,使牛肉比韩国人所喜欢的更柔软、更“复杂”。
Compared to research conducted into the development of transoceanic meatways between Europe, the Americas, and Australasia during the long nineteenth century, relatively little is known about how meatways internationalized in East Asia. This article fills this gap in the literature by investigating how Japan exploited the bovine resources of colonial Korea. As a “hoof-to-table history,” it explains how bureaucrats, agricultural scientists, veterinarians, and merchants constructed imperial technoscientific regimes that made it possible not only to improve and sanitize Korean bovine bodies into meat suitable for Japanese palates but also to transport them not dead but alive. It also shows how failures at breeding based on Western strains and models led to a policy reversal that upheld the “purity” of Korean cattle. Threatened by the possibility that Korean beef could be superior to Japanese beef, the article argues how imperial meatways functioned in suppressing the “Koreanness” of cattle to making beef softer and more “sophisticated” than the tougher textures Koreans were portrayed as liking.
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