Breaking Wave Velocities and Shear Stress in Surf and Swash Zone

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ABSTRACT CTS-9407827 University of Delaware P.I.: N. Kobayashi A combined modeling and experimental approach to assist in the understanding of beach erosion will be undertaken. A hydrodynamic model will be developed to predict the spatial and temporal variations of breaking wave velocities, shear stress and turbulence intensity in the surf and swash zones. Experiments will be conducted in a wave flume in which the fluid velocities in the thin bottom boundary layer on a rough bottom will be measured. Turbulence measurements in the surf zone will be used to elucidate the processes of the turbulence generation, advection, diffusion and dissipation in the surf zone as well as to calibrate and evaluate the turbulence model adopted in the numerical studies. Velocity and free surface measurements will be used to evaluate the capabilities and limitations of the developed numerical model for predicting the spatial and temporal variations of fluid velocities and shear stress under breaking regular and irregular waves.