Imperial vestments: gold embroidered staging of the past. For the first time the imperial vestments can be examined with new methods of study and scientific research, prompted by an epigraphic autopsy which caused justified doubts about the traditional co

皇家法衣：过去的金绣舞台。

基本信息

批准号：
275328353
负责人：
Professor Dr. Stephan Albrecht
金额：
--
依托单位：
Lehrstuhl für Kunstgeschichte, insb. für Mittelalterliche Kunstgeschichte
依托单位国家：
德国
项目类别：
Research Grants
财政年份：
2015
资助国家：
德国
起止时间：
2014-12-31 至 2021-12-31
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gepris.dfg.de/gepris/projekt/275328353?language=en
关键词：
Imperial vestments gold embroidered staging

项目摘要

The imperial vestments of Bamberg are the eldest preserved garments connected to European rulers in the whole world; they belong to the highest ranking cultural property of Germany. As most important artefacts of early Romanesque art they mold our view of the first turn of the millennium. These six gems of textile art, including the famous star mantle, the blue mantle of Kunigunde and the Bamberg rationale are considered mementos of the founder of the dioceses of Bamberg, the emperor Henry II and his wife Kunigunde. In the Late Middle Ages the gold embroideries were cut from the original fabrics and fixed on new silk fabrics. From the 18th century onwards it has been a generally accepted fact that this transfer was made according the original composition of the early 11th century without any significant changes. A first autopsy of the inscriptions however raises doubts. Selective observations on inscriptions of the star mantle suggest that far more has been changed during the late medieval restructuring then so far believed. There are indications of a deliberate and fundamental change of the medieval garments as media of staging the cult of the emperor and saint. Questions on the original 11th century conception of the star mantle and all the other garments in its context result. On the other hand the late medieval changes their motivation and the aim of restaging the past in purpose of the cult of the imperial founder-couple are to be reconsidered. Furthermore the vestments have not been studied definitively. Todays historical and art historical publications are based on the results of a documented restauration of the middle of the 20th century. In many parts fundamental research-work could not be made or has been made only superficially e.g. the analysis of the metal thread. Furthermore the intention of the 1950 restauration has to be critically analyzed. Also the written sources must be studied critically for the first time, including the several detached fragments which have never been taken into consideration. After 60 years there is the singular chance to study the vestments from a new point of view and with new scientific methods. Not only will there be a critical reinvestigation of the status of research, but using new micro invasive and comparative analysis method of metal will allow to investigate the changes and the complementary embroideries and their different layers of time and to reconstruct the original concept of the garments. Considering the importance of the vestments for history and art history there will be a new vision on the times of Henry II and the time of the turn of the first millennium, new and advanced information on the development of late medieval cult of saints and emperors and a new view on the restaging of the vestments connected to the refocusing on traditional values in the early Bundesrepublik.

班贝格（Bamberg）的帝国服是与全世界欧洲统治者有关的长子。它们属于德国排名最高的文化财产。作为早期罗马式艺术的最重要人工制品，他们塑造了我们对千年第一回合的看法。这六种纺织艺术的宝石，包括著名的明星披风，库尼古德的蓝色披风和班贝格的理由，被认为是班贝格教区创始人的纪念品，亨利二世皇帝和他的妻子库尼古德（Kunigunde）。在中世纪后期，金绣花是从原始织物中切出的，并固定在新的丝绸织物上。从18世纪开始，人们普遍接受的事实是，这种转移是根据11世纪初的原始组成进行的，没有任何重大变化。然而，对铭文的第一次尸检引起了疑问。关于《星报》铭文的选择性观察表明，在中世纪晚期的重组期间，迄今为止人们相信，已经改变了更多。有迹象表明，中世纪服装的故意和根本性变化是媒体宣传皇帝和圣人的媒体。关于最初的11世纪恒星披风及其上下文中所有其他服装的概念的问题。另一方面，晚期中世纪改变了他们的动力，以及重新考虑帝国创始人群岛崇拜的目的重新考虑过去的目的。此外，尚未确定研究服装。当今的历史和艺术历史出版物是基于20世纪中叶的一家餐馆的结果。在许多部分，基本研究工作无法进行或仅在表面上进行，例如金属线的分析。此外，必须对1950年餐馆的意图进行严格的分析。同样，必须首次对书面资源进行批判性研究，包括从未考虑过的几个独立片段。 60年后，有一个单一的机会从新的角度和新的科学方法研究。研究状态不仅会重新研究，而且使用新的微观侵入性和比较分析方法将允许研究变化和互补刺绣及其不同的时间层，并重建服装的原始概念。考虑到服装对历史和艺术历史的重要性，亨利二世时代以及第一千年之交的时代将有一个新的愿景，有关后世后期圣徒和皇帝的发展的新和高级信息，以及关于与早期Bundesrepublik的传统价值观相关的既往的新看法。