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Imperial vestments: gold embroidered staging of the past. For the first time the imperial vestments can be examined with new methods of study and scientific research, prompted by an epigraphic autopsy which caused justified doubts about the traditional co

皇家法衣：过去的金绣舞台。

基本信息

批准号：
275328353
负责人：
Professor Dr. Stephan Albrecht
金额：
--
依托单位：
Lehrstuhl für Kunstgeschichte, insb. für Mittelalterliche Kunstgeschichte
依托单位国家：
德国
项目类别：
Research Grants
财政年份：
2015
资助国家：
德国
起止时间：
2014-12-31 至 2021-12-31
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gepris.dfg.de/gepris/projekt/275328353?language=en
关键词：
Imperial vestments gold embroidered staging

项目摘要

The imperial vestments of Bamberg are the eldest preserved garments connected to European rulers in the whole world; they belong to the highest ranking cultural property of Germany. As most important artefacts of early Romanesque art they mold our view of the first turn of the millennium. These six gems of textile art, including the famous star mantle, the blue mantle of Kunigunde and the Bamberg rationale are considered mementos of the founder of the dioceses of Bamberg, the emperor Henry II and his wife Kunigunde. In the Late Middle Ages the gold embroideries were cut from the original fabrics and fixed on new silk fabrics. From the 18th century onwards it has been a generally accepted fact that this transfer was made according the original composition of the early 11th century without any significant changes. A first autopsy of the inscriptions however raises doubts. Selective observations on inscriptions of the star mantle suggest that far more has been changed during the late medieval restructuring then so far believed. There are indications of a deliberate and fundamental change of the medieval garments as media of staging the cult of the emperor and saint. Questions on the original 11th century conception of the star mantle and all the other garments in its context result. On the other hand the late medieval changes their motivation and the aim of restaging the past in purpose of the cult of the imperial founder-couple are to be reconsidered. Furthermore the vestments have not been studied definitively. Todays historical and art historical publications are based on the results of a documented restauration of the middle of the 20th century. In many parts fundamental research-work could not be made or has been made only superficially e.g. the analysis of the metal thread. Furthermore the intention of the 1950 restauration has to be critically analyzed. Also the written sources must be studied critically for the first time, including the several detached fragments which have never been taken into consideration. After 60 years there is the singular chance to study the vestments from a new point of view and with new scientific methods. Not only will there be a critical reinvestigation of the status of research, but using new micro invasive and comparative analysis method of metal will allow to investigate the changes and the complementary embroideries and their different layers of time and to reconstruct the original concept of the garments. Considering the importance of the vestments for history and art history there will be a new vision on the times of Henry II and the time of the turn of the first millennium, new and advanced information on the development of late medieval cult of saints and emperors and a new view on the restaging of the vestments connected to the refocusing on traditional values in the early Bundesrepublik.

班贝格的帝王礼服是世界上保存下来的与欧洲统治者有关的最古老的服装，属于德国最高级别的文化财产。作为早期罗马式艺术的最重要的人工制品，它们塑造了我们对千年第一个转折点的看法。这六件纺织艺术珍品，包括著名的星星斗篷、Kunigunde蓝色斗篷和班贝格理性被认为是班贝格教区创始人、皇帝亨利二世和他的妻子Kunigunde的纪念品。在中世纪晚期，黄金刺绣是从原来的织物上剪下来，固定在新的丝绸织物上。从18世纪开始，人们普遍接受的事实是，这种转移是根据世纪初的原始组成进行的，没有任何重大变化。然而，对铭文的第一次解剖引起了怀疑。对星星地幔铭文的选择性观察表明，在中世纪晚期的重组过程中，发生的变化远比迄今为止所认为的要多。有迹象表明，中世纪服装作为举办皇帝和圣人崇拜的媒介，发生了蓄意的根本性变化。对世纪最初关于星星斗篷和所有其他服装的概念提出了质疑。另一方面，中世纪晚期的变化，其动机和目的是为了帝国的创始人夫妇崇拜的目的，以重演过去，是值得重新考虑的。此外，还没有明确地研究过这种病毒。今天的历史和艺术史出版物是基于20世纪世纪中期恢复的结果。在许多地方，基础研究工作不能进行，或者只进行了表面上的研究，例如金属线的分析。此外，1950年恢复的意图必须加以批判性分析。此外，书面来源必须认真研究的第一次，包括从未考虑过的几个分离的片段。60年后，有一个难得的机会从一个新的角度和新的科学方法来研究车辆。不仅会对研究现状进行批判性的重新调查，而且使用新的金属微创和比较分析方法将允许调查变化和互补刺绣及其不同的时间层，并重建服装的原始概念。考虑到《圣经》对历史和艺术史的重要性，将对亨利二世的时代和第一个千年之交的时间有一个新的看法，对中世纪晚期圣徒和皇帝崇拜的发展有新的和先进的信息，对《圣经》的重新定位有一个新的看法，与早期联邦共和国对传统价值观的重新关注有关。