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Theory of Stable Sandy Beach Formation and Its Applicability

稳定沙滩形成理论及其应用

基本信息

批准号：
03452212
负责人：
TSUCHIYA Yoshito
金额：
$ 4.48万
依托单位：
KYOTO UNIVERSITY
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)
财政年份：
1991
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1991 至 1993
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-03452212/
关键词：
Stable sandy beach Beach configuration Longshore sediment transport rate Beach erosion control Headland Methodology for beach erosion control by headlands Amanohashidate coast Sandy beach 天の橋立海岸砂浜海岸海浜群安定海浜方程式

项目摘要

1) Theory of stable sandy beach formation : Under the assumption of narrow sandy beach compared with the surf zone width, by applying the so-called boundary layr method, the equation for longshore currents was derived from the equations of nearshore currents. Introducing the law of longshore sediment transport into it gave the general equation of longshore sediment transport. By use of the equations of longshore sediment transport and continuity for shoreline change the equation of stable sandy beach was derived. The theoretical solution was obtained by the up- and down-coast boundary conditions. This concludes that eroding sandy beach can be stabilized by forming a stable sandy beach with two boundary conditions. Comparison of the theoretical plan configurations of dynamic stable beach with those of Amanohashidate coast confirmed good applicability of the theory. 3D-model for bottom topography change also confirmed the formation process of stable sandy beach.2) Applications to beach erosion control : Since the formation theory was established, a methodology for beach erosion control was examined by the formation of a seried of stable sandy beaches.a) In relation to the sandy bypassing, dynamic stable sandy beaches are successfully formed between groins at Amanohashidate coast. Practical criteria for stabilizing sandy bezch were obtained.b) In order to staabilize eroding sandy beaches, large scale coastal behavior must first be investugated, and stable sandy beaches can be formed. Its practical application was proposed to Joetsu-Ogata coast. Its aspplicability was shown experimentally.c) Conclusion : On the basis of the basic studies of the formation of stable sandy beaches, a methodology for beach erosin control using headlands was proposed. Its applications were made to Amanohashidate and Joetsu-Ogata coasts as well as Niigata coast and coral-sand beaches in Bali.

1)稳定沙质海滩形成理论：在沙质海滩相对于海浪带宽度较窄的假设下，应用所谓的边界层方法，从近岸水流方程出发，推导出近岸水流方程。将近岸泥沙运动规律引入其中，给出了近岸泥沙运动的一般方程。利用沿岸泥沙运动方程和岸线变化连续性方程，推导出稳定沙质海滩的运动方程。理论解由上行和下行边界条件得到。这说明侵蚀沙质海滩可以通过形成具有两个边界条件的稳定沙质海滩来稳定。动态型稳定海滩的理论平面构型与天桥海岸的理论平面构型比较，证实了该理论的良好适用性。海底地形变化的三维模型也证实了稳定沙质海滩的形成过程。2)在海滩侵蚀控制中的应用：自形成理论建立以来，通过形成一系列稳定的沙质海滩来检验海滩侵蚀控制的方法。a)在沙粒绕行方面，在Amanohashiate海岸的丁坝之间成功地形成了动态稳定的沙质海滩。得到了稳定沙质滩涂的实用判据。b)为了稳定侵蚀沙质滩涂，必须首先研究大范围的海岸行为，才能形成稳定的沙质滩涂。提出了该方法在珠江-绪方海岸的实际应用。C)结论：在稳定沙质海滩形成的基础研究基础上，提出了利用海角控制滩涂腐殖质的方法。它的应用范围包括天桥海岸和江津-绪方海岸，以及巴厘岛的新泻海岸和珊瑚沙滩。