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Forming of single and steep waves in uni-directioned wave trains and their properties

单向波列中单波和陡波的形成及其特性

基本信息

批准号：
06650559
负责人：
YASUDA Takashi
金额：
$ 1.28万
依托单位：
Gifu University
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
财政年份：
1994
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
1994 至 1995
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-06650559/
关键词：
Freak wave Extreme wave Nonlinear interaction Breaking wave Waveheight distribution Forced modes Rayleigh distribution 深海波 Weibull分布

项目摘要

Third order resonant interaction was shown to cause single and steep waves such as freak waves in uni-directional wave trains, by solving the hydrodynamic equations of irrotational flow for nonlinear waves with various spectra corresponding to swell from wind waves and by analyzing the observed wave data in sea area around Japan. The achievements are as follows :・Forced high-wave number modes exicited by the third order resonant and nonresonant interactions increase the occurrence probability of extremely high waves leading to freak waves. However, wave breaking reduces the nonlinear effects amplifying wave-height and fits the waveheight distribution to the Rayleigh distribution. As a result, Edgeworth-Rayleigh distribution was suggested as the waveheight distribution applicable to waves suffering the third order nonlinear interaction and breaking effects.・Analysis of wave data obtained off Yura fishery harbor facing the Japan sea made clear that giant freak waves of which waveheights exceed two times of H_<1/3> and further 10m are caused by nonlinear wave-wave interactions under strong but uniform winds in winter. Further, they showed that the occurrence probability is almost twice that predicted by the Reyleigh distribution.・Temporal and spatial surface profiles of the giant freak waves can be expressed approximately by using the space-time correlation function derived from the directional spectra.

通过求解与风浪浪涌相对应的各种谱的非线性波浪的无旋流流体动力学方程，并对日本海域的实测波浪资料进行分析，证明了三阶共振相互作用可引起单向波列中的单波和陡波，如畸形波。研究成果如下：·三阶共振和非共振相互作用产生的强迫高波数模增加了导致异常波的极高波的发生概率。而破波减小了波高放大的非线性效应，使波高分布符合瑞利分布。因此，Edgeworth-Rayleigh分布被认为是适用于三阶非线性相互作用和破碎效应的波的波高分布。·对面向日本海的有拉渔港附近波浪资料的分析表明，浪高超过2倍H_<1/3>和10m以上的巨大异常浪是在冬季强而均匀的风作用下非线性波浪相互作用引起的。此外，他们还表明，这种情况发生的概率几乎是瑞利分布预测的两倍。·利用由方向谱导出的时空相关函数，可以近似地表示巨畸形波的时空表面轮廓。