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A Comparative Cultural Study on Gender in Costume

服饰性别的比较文化研究

基本信息

批准号：
16500485
负责人：
SASAI Kei
金额：
$ 2.24万
依托单位：
Japan Women's University
依托单位国家：
日本
项目类别：
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
财政年份：
2004
资助国家：
日本
起止时间：
2004 至 2006
项目状态：
已结题

项目摘要

We have been engaged in an exchange of opinions at study group meetings held three or four times a year while each proceeding with our own research.The research carried out in connection with the West focused on the concept of the "new woman" in the United States, Britain and Japan during the late 19^<th> century, and we studied awareness of gender on the basis of the clothing associated with the "new woman". On the basis of the movement aimed at improving the clothing of the "new woman" and the types of clothing that appear in manifestations of the theatre and the novel that treat the "new woman", we show how the concept of the "new woman" became established through new clothing and action. By studying new forms of clothing such as women's sportswear and practical clothing originating in Britain during this period, we came to appreciate that a new sense of values was brought forward at this time and that it had an influence on attitudes to gender during the 20^<th> century.We examined cross-dressing by women in England during the first half of the 17^<th> century and female dressing in men's wear as evident in early modern French literature. We have thus managed to throw light on gender awareness at that time.The research conducted specifically in connection with novel Torikaebaya monogatari (The Changelings) and on Okuni Kabuki. We were concerned particularly with manifestations of gender and sexuality. We were able also to throw light on the awareness of values shared by both men and women.As regards popular customs during the early part of the 17^<th> century, through examination of a picture scroll dating from this period entitled the Kabuki zumaki, and we were able to bring to light the attitudes to gender.

我们每年召开三、四次研究小组会议，一边进行各自的研究，一边进行意见交流。针对西方的研究主要集中在19世纪末期美国、英国和日本的“新女性”概念，并以与“新女性”相关的服饰为基础研究性别意识。我们以旨在改进“新女性”服装的运动以及对待“新女性”的戏剧和小说中出现的服装类型为基础，展示了“新女性”的概念是如何通过新的服装和行动而确立的。通过研究这一时期起源于英国的女性运动装、实用服装等新的服装形式，我们认识到这一时期提出了一种新的价值观，并对20世纪的性别态度产生了影响。我们考察了17世纪上半叶英国女性的异装行为和法国早期现代文学中明显的女装男装。因此，我们成功地阐明了当时的性别意识。这项研究是专门针对小说《鸟甲屋物语》和《奥国歌舞伎》进行的。我们特别关注性别和性行为的表现。我们还能够阐明男性和女性共同的价值观意识。关于17世纪初期的流行习俗，通过研究这一时期的画卷《歌舞伎祖卷》，我们能够揭示人们对性别的态度。