A Comparative Cultural Study on Gender in Costume

我们一直在每年举行三到四次的研究小组会议上交换意见，同时各自进行自己的研究。与西方相关的研究主要集中在19世纪末美国、英国和日本的“新女性”概念上，我们在与“新女性”相关的服装的基础上研究性别意识。以“新女性”服装改良运动和戏剧、小说中表现“新女性”的服装类型为基础，说明“新女性”的概念是如何通过新的服装和行动确立起来的。通过研究这一时期源自英国的新型服装，如女性运动服和实用服装，我们认识到，一种新的价值观在这一时期被提出，并对20世纪的性别态度产生了影响。我们研究了17世纪上半叶英国女性的异装癖，以及早期现代法国文学中女性穿男装的情况。因此，我们设法阐明了当时的性别意识。这项研究是专门针对小说《变灵》和奥国歌舞伎进行的。我们特别关注性别和性的表现。我们还能够阐明男性和女性共同的价值观意识。关于17世纪早期的流行习俗，通过研究这一时期的一幅名为《歌舞伎竹卷》的画卷，我们能够揭示人们对性别的态度。

We have been engaged in an exchange of opinions at study group meetings held three or four times a year while each proceeding with our own research.The research carried out in connection with the West focused on the concept of the "new woman" in the United States, Britain and Japan during the late 19^<th> century, and we studied awareness of gender on the basis of the clothing associated with the "new woman". On the basis of the movement aimed at improving the clothing of the "new woman" and the types of clothing that appear in manifestations of the theatre and the novel that treat the "new woman", we show how the concept of the "new woman" became established through new clothing and action. By studying new forms of clothing such as women's sportswear and practical clothing originating in Britain during this period, we came to appreciate that a new sense of values was brought forward at this time and that it had an influence on attitudes to gender during the 20^<th> century.We examined cross-dressing by women in England during the first half of the 17^<th> century and female dressing in men's wear as evident in early modern French literature. We have thus managed to throw light on gender awareness at that time.The research conducted specifically in connection with novel Torikaebaya monogatari (The Changelings) and on Okuni Kabuki. We were concerned particularly with manifestations of gender and sexuality. We were able also to throw light on the awareness of values shared by both men and women.As regards popular customs during the early part of the 17^<th> century, through examination of a picture scroll dating from this period entitled the Kabuki zumaki, and we were able to bring to light the attitudes to gender.