Empirical Study of Bangkok Fashion City and Industrial Revitalization

曼谷时尚城与产业振兴实证研究

• 批准号: 16530183
• 负责人: TASAKA Toshio
• 金额: $ 1.73万
• 依托单位: Osaka City University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 2004
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 2004 至 2006
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/en/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-16530183/
• 关键词: on competition; fashion industry; reform of industrial structure; FTA; national competition superiority; human creation; business creation; city creation; 靴・皮革産業; 産業集積; 都市間競争; 都心再開発; シビル・ソサエティ; タイ・ファッション産業; 繊維産業; 皮革産業

The Thai government has hammered out a plan to turn Bangkok into a "fashion city," allocating a special budget of 1.82 billion baht for the project. In the area around Bangkok's Ratchaprasong crossing (about 67,000 square meters) are concentrated the largest commercial facilities in the city, including Amarin Plaza, Erawan Sogo, Gaysorn Plaza, and Peninsula Plaza. Under the plan, the Bangkok International Fashion Academic (BIFA) was opened on the 20th floor of the Siam Discovery Center as a fashion human resources development center, and the Fashion Trend Center was constructed on the 6th floor of the Central World Tower.While the Thai Ministry of Industry is creating 11 fashion industry enhancement programs to give shape to the plan, the Ministry had previously formulated an industrial restructuring action plan in June 1998, making efforts toward restructuring and enhancements to international competitiveness in 13 specially-recognized industries. The three fashion industry pillars of … More textiles and apparel, shoes and leather, and gems and jewelry have also been designated as specially-recognized industries, with strategies to restore competitiveness and foster industry flexibility being adopted. These can be seen as a response to the rise of China, which casts a shadow over Thailand's prospects for continued development based solely on contract manufacture of low-tech products. For example, in the textile and apparel industry an AFTA agreement reducing intra-regional tariffs to from 0 to 5% beginning January 2000 is causing Thai products to lose market share to low-cost goods manufactured in other countries in the same regio, such as Indonesia and Vietnam. Furthermore, a WTO agreement enforced free competition in the textiles industry from 2005, meaning that Thailand could no longer depend on a quota market based on export quotas. Hence the Bangkok Fashion City plan is also an industrial measure aimed at strengthening international competitiveness in three segments of the fashion industry.The first chapter of this report looks into what the Bangkok Fashion City plan is. First the background and history of the plan are explained. In January 2002 the Textile Industry Development Institute, an independent corporation of the Ministry of Industry, held a seminar in Kanchanaburi Province on the subject of what steps would have to be taken to make Thailand into the epicenter of the regional fashion industry. It was at this seminar that the framework for the Bangkok Fashion City plan was conceived. After receiving approval at a Cabinet meeting in July 2003, the Bangkok Fashion City plan moved into contract tasks with businesses for the 11 sub-projects.The 11 sub-projects are divided into three categories: Human Creation, Business Creation, and City Creation. "1. Fashion Human Resources Development Plan" falls under the category of Human Creation, while "2. World Fashion Trend Collection Plan," "3. Textile and Apparel Industry Competitiveness Enhancement Plan," "4. Shoes and Leather Industry Competitiveness Enhancement Plan," and "5. Gems and Jewelry Industry Competitiveness Enhancement Plan" make up the Business Creation category. Finally, City Creation encompasses "6. Exhibition Plan," "7. Fashion Trend Creation Plan," "8. International Fashion Design Contest Plan," "9. Target Market Cultivation Plan," "10. Thai Designers' Fashion Achievements Collection Plan," and "11. Bangkok Fashion City Image Creation Plan."This report indicates the goals and challenges for these 11 sub-projects and explains how these matters are currently being addressed. Having looked at the current status of the plan, the following assessment has been made as to the progress so far: Tienchai Mahasiri, president of the Thai Garment Manufacturers Association states, "It is impossible to bring up a fashion capital in a short time period; rather it is something to be built up steadily over time." As this comment indicates, there can be no immediate judgment on the success or failure of the Bangkok Fashion City plan. It depends on how the Human Creation aspect plays out and how creatively-gifted designers emerge. Hence it is not something that can happen overnight, but rather something that will have to be assessed over time.The Bangkok Fashion City plan is not just about Human Creation and City Creation; most of all it concerns Business Creation. Business Creation refers to plans aimed at strengthening the competitiveness of three core segments of the fashion industry: textiles and apparel, shoes and leather, and gems and jewelry. Chapter 2 deals with the textiles and apparel industry, giving an overview of the international market conditions in this sector.Nearly all of Thailand's apparel manufacture is commissioned from leading global companies or subcontracted internationally. Leading global companies scatter manufacturing hubs across the globe in a constant effort to reduce costs; they have no loyalty to Thailand. Hence the only way for Thailand's textiles and apparel industry to stay in the game is to create its own designs and compete with its own brands. The country can only do that by surveying global market trends, researching the unique cultural characteristics and selling points of each area, and manufacturing and selling products in anticipation of market demands. This will require the apparel industry to improve its supply chain and implement other structural reforms necessary to operate in this age of globalization. The Ministry of Industry must also work on improving basic infrastructure for the apparel industry through Plan 3 of its Bangkok Fashion City Plan.In Chapter 3 we take up the current status of the gems and jewelry industry and plans for its competitive enhancement. The export of Thailand's gems and jewelry industry mainly comprises of jewelry (genuine) going to the United States market, jewelry (genuine) and diamonds going to the EU market, and jewelry (genuine) and diamonds as well as other jewelry items going to the Israeli markets. Gems and jewelry are expected to trend toward items that reflect the lifestyle and raise the spirits of their wearers. This points toward a likely increase in demand for custom-made gems and jewelry in the future. However, Thailand's gems and jewelry production centers on internationally sub-contracted manufacture and commissioned manufacture and does not respond directly to consumer demand. To sensitively respond to annually changing consumer demands it is important for the nation to develop gem and jewelry design capabilities and break into the consumer market with its own brands. This is why the Thai government is improving basic infrastructure through its Bangkok Fashion City plan.The sub-projects Plan 5 and Plan 10 of the Bangkok Fashion City plan aim to enhance the competitiveness of the gems and jewelry industry. The plans to enhance industry competitiveness place special emphasis on cultivating human resources with the idea that this will lead to greater design capabilities and brand development. This is an attempt to develop Thailand's own design capabilities and brands and deliver them directly to consumers, since the country's gems and jewelry industry will soon no longer be able to survive on sub-contracted and commissioned manufacturing. However, these plans will not foster sufficient human resources on their own. It seems the country will need to make more consistent efforts by establishing new colleges or departments in the fields of gems and jewelry as well as opening gem designer schools or the like.Chapter 4 examines the shoes and leather industry. The value of the Thai shoes and leather industry's exports in 2004 was about 70 billion baht, with leather articles accounting for 7 billion baht, shoes and shoe components accounting for 34 billion baht, and bleached and compressed leather articles accounting for 28 billion baht. The shoes and leather industry development projects focus on raising the standards of these products. In particular, the projects aim to move the industry out of commissioned manufacturing for leading global companies and into manufacture and sale of its own brands, or to enhance the brand power and business structure of manufacturers that already have their own brands in place. The projects further aim to transmit an understanding of the current fashion trends to manufactures of raw materials and components so that their manufacturing methods are more in line with the trends surrounding the finished products. This could lead to a reduction in or replacement of raw material imports.A feature of the shoes and leather industry competitiveness enhancement programs is hence their objective of moving Thailand away from being an international sub-contracting center toward having Thai companies create their own designs and brands and having specialists propose individual business plans. In contrast, the competitiveness enhancement programs for the gems and jewelry industry and the textiles and apparel industry focus on cultivating human resources, putting together a training curriculum, and attending to the education of trainees. This indicates that the manner in which the specialist-proposed individual plans are implemented at each factory-or how structural reforms are carried out-will likely be determining factor in the feasibility of these projects.Finally, I have translated materials relating to the Bangkok Fashion City plan and three reports from the Thai Development Research Institute (TDRI) that consider the impact of AFTA. The Federation of Thai Industry (FTI) commissioned a survey through the TDRI on how AFTA's coming into effect will impact the Thai fashion industry. The TDRI broke down the fashion industry into 1) the textiles and apparel industry, 2) the gems and jewelry industry, and 3) the leather industry. The institute surveyed the manufacturing conditions and international competitiveness and reported the findings to the FTI in 1996. This report contains translations of all three reports.In the "Materials Relating to the Conception of Bangkok Fashion City" the following four articles are also translated and presented: an essay and an interview from a journal of the FTI, a special essay from "Turakij Khawna" magazine, and an essay from the Department of Industrial Promotion's "Utsaharakam Sam" magazine. These articles shed light on the expectations placed on the Bangkok Fashion City plan by the Thai manufacturing industry as well as the problem consciousness of the Minister of Industry at the time, Mr. Somsak Thepsutin, who promoted the plan. The special essay from "Turakij Khawna" magazine was written when the plan was still in its infancy, while the essay from the Department of Industrial Promotion's "Utsaharakam Sam" magazine was written one year after the plan's inception. Both essays take up the plan's 11 sub-projects and assess their execution status. I believe these essays and the interview article will enable the reader to grasp the basic content of the Bangkok Fashion City plan. Less

泰国政府制定了将曼谷打造成“时尚之城”的计划，为该项目分配了18.2亿泰铢的特别预算。曼谷拉差帕颂路口周边地区（约67,000平方米）集中了全市最大的商业设施，包括阿玛林广场、四面佛崇光百货、盖索恩广场、半岛广场等。根据该计划，曼谷国际时尚学院（BIFA）在暹罗探索中心20楼开设，作为时尚人力资源开发中心，时尚潮流中心在中央世界大厦6楼兴建。在泰国工业部正在制定11项时尚产业增强计划以落实该计划的同时，该部此前已于1998年6月制定了产业结构调整行动计划，致力于结构调整和增强国际竞争力 13个特别认可的行业。纺织服装、鞋履皮革、宝石珠宝这三大时尚产业支柱也被指定为特别认可产业，并采取恢复竞争力和增强产业灵活性的战略。这些可以被视为对中国崛起的回应，这给泰国仅依靠低技术产品合同制造的持续发展前景蒙上了阴影。例如，在纺织和服装行业，自 2000 年 1 月起，AFTA 协议将区域内关税从 0% 降低到 5%，导致泰国产品的市场份额被同一地区其他国家（如印度尼西亚和越南）制造的低成本产品夺走。此外，世贸组织协议从2005年起强制纺织业自由竞争，这意味着泰国不能再依赖基于出口配额的配额市场。因此，曼谷时尚城计划也是一项旨在增强时尚产业三个细分领域国际竞争力的产业措施。本报告第一章探讨了曼谷时尚城计划是什么。首先解释该计划的背景和历史。 2002 年 1 月，工业部的独立法人纺织工业发展研究所在北碧府举办了一次研讨会，主题是必须采取哪些措施使泰国成为地区时装业的中心。正是在这次研讨会上，曼谷时尚城规划的框架得以构想。 2003年7月内阁会议批准后，曼谷时尚城计划进入与企业签订11个子项目的合同任务。这11个子项目分为三类：人类创造、商业创造和城市创造。 “1.时尚人力资源发展计划”属于人类创造范畴，而“2.世界流行趋势汇集计划”、“3.纺织服装业竞争力提升计划”、“4.鞋类和皮革业竞争力提升计划”和“5.珠宝首饰业竞争力提升计划”属于商业创造范畴。最后，城市创建包括“6.展览计划”、“7.时尚潮流打造计划”、“8.国际时装设计大赛计划”、“9.目标市场培育计划”、“10.泰国设计师时尚成果征集计划”、“11.曼谷时尚城市形象塑造计划”。本报告指出了这11个子项目的目标和挑战，并解释了这些问题目前的解决情况。在审视了该计划的现状后，对迄今为止的进展做出了以下评估：泰国服装制造商协会主席Tienchai Mahasiri表示，“不可能在短时间内打造出时尚之都，而是需要随着时间的推移稳步建立起来。”正如此评论所表明的那样，无法立即判断曼谷时尚城计划的成功或失败。这取决于人类创造方面如何发挥作用以及富有创造力的设计师如何出现。因此，这不是一朝一夕就能发生的事情，而是需要随着时间的推移进行评估的事情。曼谷时尚城计划不仅仅是人类创造和城市创造；它还涉及人类创造和城市创造。最重要的是它涉及商业创造。商业创造是指旨在加强时尚产业三个核心领域竞争力的计划：纺织品和服装、鞋履和皮革、宝石和珠宝。第二章讨论纺织和服装行业，概述该行业的国际市场状况。几乎所有泰国的服装制造都是由全球领先公司委托或在国际上分包的。全球领先的公司将制造中心分散在全球各地，不断努力降低成本；他们对泰国没有忠诚度。因此，泰国纺织服装业要想留在这场竞争中，唯一的出路就是创造自己的设计并与自己的品牌竞争。国家只能通过调查全球市场趋势，研究每个地区独特的文化特征和卖点，并根据市场需求生产和销售产品。这将要求服装行业改善其供应链，并实施在全球化时代运营所需的其他结构性改革。工业部还必须通过曼谷时尚城计划的计划 3 致力于改善服装行业的基础设施。在第三章中，我们讨论了宝石和珠宝行业的现状以及增强其竞争力的计划。泰国宝石和珠宝行业的出口主要包括销往美国市场的珠宝（正品）、销往欧盟市场的珠宝（正品）和钻石以及销往以色列市场的珠宝（正品）和钻石以及其他珠宝首饰。宝石和珠宝预计将趋向于反映生活方式并提升佩戴者精神的物品。这表明未来对定制宝石和珠宝的需求可能会增加。然而，泰国的宝石和珠宝生产以国际分包制造和委托制造为主，并不直接响应消费者需求。为了敏感地应对每年不断变化的消费者需求，国家必须发展宝石和珠宝设计能力并以自己的品牌打入消费市场。这就是泰国政府通过曼谷时尚城计划改善基础设施的原因。曼谷时尚城计划的子项目计划5和计划10旨在增强宝石和珠宝行业的竞争力。提高行业竞争力的计划特别强调人力资源的培养，以提高设计能力和品牌发展。这是发展泰国自己的设计能力和品牌并将其直接交付给消费者的尝试，因为该国的宝石和珠宝行业很快将无法再依靠分包和委托制造生存。然而，这些计划本身并不能培养足够的人力资源。看来该国需要做出更加一致的努力，在宝石和珠宝领域建立新的学院或部门，以及开设宝石设计师学校等。第四章考察了鞋子和皮革行业。 2004年泰国鞋类和皮革业的出口额约为700亿泰铢，其中皮革制品占70亿泰铢，鞋和鞋部件占340亿泰铢，漂白和压缩皮革制​​品占280亿泰铢。鞋类和皮革工业发展项目的重点是提高这些产品的标准。特别是，这些项目旨在使该行业从为全球领先公司委托制造转向制造和销售自有品牌，或者增强已经拥有自有品牌的制造商的品牌力和业务结构。这些项目还旨在向原材料和零部件制造商传达对当前时尚趋势的了解，使其制造方法更符合成品的趋势。这可能会导致原材料进口的减少或替代。因此，鞋类和皮革行业竞争力增强计划的一个特点是，其目标是使泰国从国际分包中心转向让泰国公司创建自己的设计和品牌，并让专家提出个人商业计划。相比之下，珠宝首饰行业和纺织服装行业的竞争力提升计划则侧重于人力资源培养、培训课程的制定以及对学员的教育。这表明专家提出的个别计划在每个工厂的实施方式，或者说如何进行结构改革，很可能成为这些项目可行性的决定因素。最后，我翻译了与曼谷时尚城计划相关的材料和泰国发展研究所（TDRI）考虑AFTA影响的三份报告。泰国工业联合会 (FTI) 委托 TDRI 进行一项调查，了解 AFTA 的生效将如何影响泰国时装业。 TDRI 将时尚行业细分为 1) 纺织和服装行业、2) 宝石和珠宝行业以及 3) 皮革行业。该研究所对制造条件和国际竞争力进行了调查，并于 1996 年向 FTI 报告了调查结果。本报告包含所有三份报告的翻译。在“与曼谷时尚城构想相关的材料”中，还翻译并展示了以下四篇文章：FTI 杂志的一篇文章和采访、《Turakij Khawna》杂志的一篇专题文章以及工业促进部的一篇文章 《Utsaharakam Sam》杂志。这些文章揭示了泰国制造业对曼谷时尚城计划的期望，以及推动该计划的时任工业部部长Somsak Thepsutin先生的问题意识。 《Turakij Khawna》杂志的特别文章是在该计划仍处于起步阶段时撰写的，而工业促进部的《Utsaharakam Sam》杂志的文章是在该计划启动一年后撰写的。这两篇文章都讨论了该计划的 11 个子项目并评估了它们的执行情况。相信这些随笔和采访文章将使读者掌握曼谷时尚城规划的基本内容。较少的

项目成果

東アジア・シビル・ソサエティとガバナンス改革

东亚公民社会与治理改革

• 发表时间: 2004
• 期刊: 季刊経済研究(大阪市立大学) 27・3
• 作者: 花崎正晴;ユパナ・ウィワッタナカンタン;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;Yoshimasa Katoh;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;加藤恵正;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄
• 通讯作者: 田坂 敏雄

東アジアの都市間競争と産業集積

东亚城市间的竞争与产业集聚

• 发表时间: 2005
• 期刊: 季刊経済研究(大阪市立大学) 27・4
• 作者: 花崎正晴;ユパナ・ウィワッタナカンタン;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;Yoshimasa Katoh;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;加藤恵正;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄
• 通讯作者: 田坂 敏雄

タイ皮革産業とAFTAの影響

泰国皮革业和 AFTA 的影响

• 发表时间: 2005
• 期刊: 大阪市立大学『季刊経済研究』 28・2
• 作者: 花崎正晴;ユパナ・ウィワッタナカンタン;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;Yoshimasa Katoh;加藤恵正;Toshio Tasaka;加藤恵正;加藤恵正;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;Yoshimasa Katoh;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄
• 通讯作者: 田坂 敏雄

東アジア都市論の構想

东亚城市理论的概念

• 发表时间: 2005
• 作者: 西澤希久男;田坂敏雄
• 通讯作者: 田坂敏雄

タイ宝石ジュエリー産業とバンコク・ファッション・シティ計画

泰国宝石和珠宝行业与曼谷时尚城项目

• 发表时间: 2006
• 期刊: 季刊経済研究(大阪市立大学) Vol. 29No. 2(未定)
• 作者: 花崎正晴;ユパナ・ウィワッタナカンタン;田坂 敏雄;Toshio Tasaka;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄;田坂 敏雄
• 通讯作者: 田坂 敏雄