Creating and composing ice cream in the transition from 18th to 19th century. Cultures of knowledge and gustatory pleasure between courts and middle-class housholds.

这项研究项目考察了1750年至1850年期间冰淇淋的生产、制作、呈现和乐趣。它询问知识和独特做法的转让，这些知识和做法被铭刻在这种甜点的创造、上演和快乐的消费中。这项研究包括五个不同的主题，将冰淇淋作为一种社会、文化、手工和感官区分的手段。首先，该项目反思了跨地区欧洲男爵贵族饮食文化中的区别模式，并考察了中产阶级餐桌文化中的采用和挪用模式。其次，该提案概述了厨师和糖果制造商在冷冻甜点和冰淇淋方面的艺术知识，以及这些专家跨区域和跨国家获取、分享和传播这一知识的方式。该项目的第三条线索着眼于不断发展的公民阅读和媒体社会，同时审查烹饪书籍和收据集的出版过程、其分发、接收和与吃甜点有关的知识的普及。这与味觉知识和感官体验有关，Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin(1825)概述了其他经验数据，这些数据来自宫廷厨房及其糕点作坊的书记员编制的库存、菜单表和消费登记簿，以及贵族和中产阶级美食家和美食家的自传描述和个人信件。研究的第五个核心是冰淇淋的物质性和质地随着时间的推移从冷冻状态到融化状态的变化。在这一点上，物质文化触及了感官历史。

The research project examines the production, preparation, presentation and the pleasure of ice cream between 1750 and 1850. It enquires transfers of knowledge and practices of distinction, that are inscribed in the creation, the staging and the joyful consumption of this dessert. The study comprises five different threads that refer to ice cream as a means of social, cultural, manual and sensory distinction. Firstly, the project reflects on the modes of distinction in the eating culture of transregional european baronial aristocracy and examines the modes of adoption and appropriation in middle-class dining and table culture. Secondly, the proposal outlines the artistic knowledge of cooks and confectioners regarding frozen dessert and ice cream and the ways these experts are securing, sharing and propagating this knowledge transregionally and transnationally. The third thread of the project looks into the evolving civic reading and media society when examining the publishing process of cookbooks and receipt collections, its distribution, reception and the popularization of knowledge related to eating dessert. This connects to gustatory knowledge and sensory experience as Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1825) has outlined with additional empirical data derived from inventories, menu lists and registers of consumption that have been compiled by clerks of courtly kitchens and its pastry workshops and from autobiographical accounts and personal letters of aristocratic and middle-class gourmands and gourmandes. The fifth core of research is the materiality and texture of ice cream shifting over time from frozen to melted condition. At this point material culture touches sensory history.