Study on run and total run lengths of breaking waves in irregular wave trains.

点击翻译按钮获取中文摘要

This study aims to investigate experimentally and theoretically the characteristics of lengths of run and total run of breaking waves in irregular wave trains on gentle slopes. The breaking wave is classified into the just-breaking and broken waves. The results obtained in this study are summarized as follows.1. The gentler the bottom slope becomes, the smaller the maximum probability of occurrence of breaking waves becomes.2. The run length of breaking waves becomes large and the total run length becomes small with increasing of the probability of occurrence of breaking waves. The maximum run and minimum total run lengths obtained in the laboratory experiments were less than 1 and around 4, which correspond well to the theoretical values.3. The probability of occurrence of broken waves increases monotonously and the mean run length of broken waves increase exponentially as the waves advance to the shoreline.4. The probability distribution of lengths of run and total run of breaking waves and thier mean values are well estimated by the random probability model which considers no correlation among waves.5. The theoretical model is proposed to estimate the lengths of runs of breaking waves in case of progressive waves and its validity is confirmed by the experiments.