Study on run and total run lengths of breaking waves in irregular wave trains.

不规则波列中破碎波的游程和总游程长度研究。

• 批准号: 60550360
• 负责人: IWATA Koichiro
• 金额: $ 1.22万
• 依托单位: Nagoya University
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1985
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1985 至 1986
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-60550360/
• 关键词: Breaking wave; Irregular wave; Run lengths of breaking wave; Total run length of breaking wave; 波の連なり

This study aims to investigate experimentally and theoretically the characteristics of lengths of run and total run of breaking waves in irregular wave trains on gentle slopes. The breaking wave is classified into the just-breaking and broken waves. The results obtained in this study are summarized as follows.1. The gentler the bottom slope becomes, the smaller the maximum probability of occurrence of breaking waves becomes.2. The run length of breaking waves becomes large and the total run length becomes small with increasing of the probability of occurrence of breaking waves. The maximum run and minimum total run lengths obtained in the laboratory experiments were less than 1 and around 4, which correspond well to the theoretical values.3. The probability of occurrence of broken waves increases monotonously and the mean run length of broken waves increase exponentially as the waves advance to the shoreline.4. The probability distribution of lengths of run and total run of breaking waves and thier mean values are well estimated by the random probability model which considers no correlation among waves.5. The theoretical model is proposed to estimate the lengths of runs of breaking waves in case of progressive waves and its validity is confirmed by the experiments.

本研究旨在从实验和理论上研究缓坡上不规则波列中破碎波的游程长度和总游程特性。破碎波可分为刚破波和破碎波。本研究取得的研究成果总结如下：1.底部坡度越平缓，发生破碎波的最大概率越小。随着破碎波发生概率的增加，破碎波游程变大，总游程变小。实验室实验得到的最大游程和最小总游程长度分别小于1和4左右，与理论值吻合较好。随着波浪向岸线推进，破碎波发生的概率单调增加，破碎波平均游程呈指数增长。随机概率模型较好地估计了破碎波游程长度和总游程的概率分布及其均值，不考虑波间相关性。提出了在行波情况下估算破碎波游程长度的理论模型，并通过实验验证了该模型的有效性。

项目成果

Iwata, Koichiro and Itoh Shunji: "Estimation method of lengths of runs of breaking waves in irregular waves on gentle slopes" Proceeding of Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering. 34. (1987)

岩田浩一郎和伊藤俊二：“缓坡上不规则波浪中破浪长度的估算方法”日本海岸工程会议论文集。

岩田好一朗,伊藤俊治: 海岸工学講演会論文集. 34. (1987)

Koichiro Iwata，Shunji Ito：海岸工程会议记录 34。（1987）。

Koichiro Iwata;Shunji Itoh: Proc.International Conference on Coastal Engineeny.20. (1986)

岩田晃一郎；伊藤俊二：Proc.国际海岸工程会议.20。

岩田好一朗,伊藤俊治: 土木学会年次学術講演会講演概要集. 41. 549-550 (1986)

Koichiro Iwata，Shunji Ito：日本土木工程师学会年度学术会议摘要 41. 549-550 (1986)。

Iwata, Koichiro and Itoh Shunji: "Lengths of runs of just breaking and broken waves in irregular wave train on gentle slopes" Proceeding of International Conference on Coastal Engineering. (1986)

Iwata、Koichiro 和 Itoh Shunji：“缓坡上不规则波列中刚碎波和破碎波的运行长度”国际海岸工程会议论文集。