Quantitative approach to a group of waves with long waves in shoaling and breaking

浅滩、破碎过程中长波群的定量分析

• 批准号: 11650534
• 负责人: MIZUGUCHI Masaru
• 金额: $ 1.28万
• 依托单位: CHUO UNIVERSITY
• 依托单位国家: 日本
• 项目类别: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• 财政年份: 1999
• 资助国家: 日本
• 起止时间: 1999 至 2000
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://kaken.nii.ac.jp/grant/KAKENHI-PROJECT-11650534/
• 关键词: long waves; wave group; swash; single group of waves; 浅水変形; 砕波点

It may be possible to describe the behavior of the field waves in the swash zone reasonably well by decomposing the waves into short period (breaking wind) waves and long period (non-breaking) waves. Here well-planned laboratory experiment were performed and compared with a new model, which is developed by incorporating the existing research findings.The model developed here is to predict the swash oscillation for grouping waves and its essence is as follows :1) For short waves, swash motion may follow parabolic curve.2) For long waves,a) incoming free waves propagate freely to the shoreline,b) bound long waves may proppagete with the wave group without changing its magnitude upto the breaking point,c) long waves generated by time-varying breakpoint may be evaluated by Mizuguchi (1995) model.3) All these long waves are free after breaking (of short waves) and are fully reflected at the shoreline.Comparison of experimental results with those in the model shows that even the temporal profile of the swash oscillation can be simulated fairly well. The model may be worth to be improved for applying to the field data.

通过将波分解为短周期（破风）波和长周期（非破断）波，可以相当好地描述斜流带中场波的行为。这里进行了精心策划的实验室实验，并与结合现有研究成果开发的新模型进行了比较。这里开发的模型是预测分组波的横盘振荡，其本质如下：1）对于短波，横盘运动可能遵循抛物线曲线。2）对于长波，a）传入的自由波自由传播到海岸线，b）束缚长波可能与波群一起传播 c) 时变断点产生的长波可以通过 Mizuguchi (1995) 模型进行评估。 3) 所有这些长波在（短波）破碎后都是自由的，并在海岸线完全反射。实验结果与模型中的结果比较表明，即使是斜盘振荡的时间剖面也可以很好地模拟。该模型可能值得改进以应用于现场数据。