CLOTHING PATTERN PLANNING THROUGH SHAPE ANALYSIS OF LOWER TRUNK

在开发适合个体身体的服装图案制作新概念时，或者在考虑为不同身材制作成衣的基本图案时，有必要了解人体的形状变化如何在表面发展中出现，以及人体如何被划分为具有特征的身体群体。本研究在建立人体下躯干几何模型的基础上，建立了一个包络模型，该模型代表了被服装覆盖的身体及其表面发展。主要结果如下：(1)从下干的四个水平截面图中提取下干形状特征，引起包络面发育的特定特征，即发育中所包含的所谓“飞镖”的长度、面积和位置的变化。(2)利用包络面展开上的“飞镖”特征，提出了制作直裙衣样的新概念，并利用新直裙衣样进行了一些穿着试验。结果表明，考虑体型基本特征的新裙型更适合体型大小差异较大的下躯干。

When developing a new concept for making dress patterns to suit individual bodies, or when considering a basic pattern to produce ready-made clothes for dissimilar figures, it is necessary to understand how shape variation of human body will appear on the surface development, and how human bodies are classified into characterized physical groups. In this study an envelop model, which represent the body covered with garment and its surface development was formed after geometrical model of the lower trunk of the human body. The principal results were as follows ;(1) Lower trunk shape characteristics, extracted from four horizontal cross-section figures of the lower trunk, caused specific features on the envelop surface development, i.e., the variations of the length, area and position of the so called "darts" contained in the development.(2) New concept for making dress pattern of straight skirt was developed using features of the "darts" on the envelop surface development Some experimental wearing tests were utilized using new straight skirt pattern. The results indicated that new skirt pattern which considered essential characteristics of the shape fitted easy and well for lower trunks that varies greatly in shape and size.