A Shape Analysis of Human Shoulders Based on the Construction of Shoulder Girdle and its Application to Basic Dress Pattern Design.

人体肩部以肩带为基础，具有非常复杂的解剖结构，个体之间的差异也很大，因此对人体肩部形态进行了三维分析，为服装基本纸样设计的理论分析提供依据。通过对人体肩部形态特征与肩部表面发育关系的分析，提出了一种适合人体的服装款式设计思路。结果如下：1.配备了由四个测距仪组成的三维测量系统，可以在5秒内测量出人体的整体形状，测量精度高.用该系统测量了57名成年女性的肩石膏像，并进行了人体测量。对人体测量数据进行主成分分析（PCA），提取了两个关于肩部形状的主成分。每个组成部分都被实现为肩膀形状的复杂因素，如倾斜的肩膀，向前凹陷的肩膀和圆肩或弯曲的背部。根据PCA的因子得分将样本分为四类.通过对同一样品肩部表面展开形态的分析，发现肩部形态的变化在展开形态上具有一定的特征，即：e.前、后部发育宽度的平衡，以及发育方式所产生的裂隙的长度、数量和形态。在某些情况下，肩部的不同形状特征在发育模式上表现出相同的特征。这些结果将引导我们正确的想法，使新的基本服装模式，衣服很容易适合一个人的肩膀。

For the purpose of theoretical analysis of basic dress pattern design, human shoulders shapes were analyzed three dimensionally, because they has very complex anatomical structure based on the shoulder girdle and they also has very large variation among individuals. An analysis concerning the relation between human shoulders shape characteristics and its surface development was considered to lead us to think out a idea for the construction of dress patterns which would fit each individual person. The results were as Follows ;1. An three-dimensional measuring system using four range-finders was equipped which could measure whole human body shape within five seconds with high measuring accuracy.2. Plaster figures of human shoulders which had been molded out of fifty seven adult women were measured using above system and were also measured anthropometrically. The principal component analysis (PCA) was carried out against the anthropometric measurements, and two principal components concerning the shoulders shape were extracted. Each component was realized as complex of factors of the shoulders shape such as sloping shoulders, forward-protrudent shoulders and round shoulders or a bent back. Every samples were classified into four types according to the factor scores of PCA.3. The analyzes of surface development patterns of the shoulders part of the same samples resulted in that the variation of ones shoulder shapes bore some specific features on the development patterns, i. e. , the balance of the width of the development of front part and that of back ; the length, quantity and shape of the chink which yielded on the development patterns. In some cases different shape features on the shoulders came to show the same feature on the development patterns. These results will lead us to proper idea for making new basic dress pattern with which the dress fits easily on ones shoulders.