The Spectral Evolution of Ocean Swell

该项目旨在全面了解海洋涌浪演变的过程。它将综合利用新获得的卫星数据和战略上位于横跨太平洋的沿着两条传播路径上的浮标，从而在这一领域产生新的知识。预期的结果将是一个独特的数据集，并在我们准确预测海洋膨胀的能力方面取得重大进展。涌浪预报仍然是海浪预报模式中的主要缺陷之一。由于涌浪状况在75%的时间里主导着海浪气候，因此准确的预测对于海岸保护、了解海气相互作用以及维持船舶和港口运营至关重要。

This project aims to develop a comprehensive understanding of the processes responsible for the evolution of ocean swell. It will generate new knowledge in the field by using a combination of newly available satellite data and buoys strategically located along two propagation paths across the Pacific. The expected outcomes will be a unique data set and significant advances in our ability to accurately predict ocean swell. Swell prediction remains one of the major short-comings of ocean wave prediction models. As swell conditions dominate ocean wave climate for 75% of the time, accurate prediction is critical for coastal protection, understanding air-sea interaction and maintaining ship and port operations.