The Spectral Evolution of Ocean Swell

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This project aims to develop a comprehensive understanding of the processes responsible for the evolution of ocean swell. It will generate new knowledge in the field by using a combination of newly available satellite data and buoys strategically located along two propagation paths across the Pacific. The expected outcomes will be a unique data set and significant advances in our ability to accurately predict ocean swell. Swell prediction remains one of the major short-comings of ocean wave prediction models. As swell conditions dominate ocean wave climate for 75% of the time, accurate prediction is critical for coastal protection, understanding air-sea interaction and maintaining ship and port operations.