Weaving communities of practice. Textiles, culture and identity in the Andes: a semiotic and ontological approach.

几千年来，在安第斯文明中，具有视觉能力的人们发明了纺织品来代替文字，以记录和显示复杂的数据。世界各地的学术研究都对这种大规模的信息显示文化应用感兴趣，但在研究方法上却很有限。利用结合实地考察、数字文档、信息可视化和本体的新方法，该项目开发了一种通用语言，用于理解安第斯布，并在视觉、计算机和博物馆研究之间共享。迄今为止的研究已经证实，纺织品带有信息。有些是可以理解的；由于可用于审查的数据集不完整，样本的时间序列不连续，与民族志和历史记录的比较材料的相关性有限，以及来自活织工的评论，其他数据仍然无法访问。为了克服这一点，我们选择了区域采样程序，而不是本地采样程序，以使我们更容易获得材料，而我们的跨学科方法促进了更大的样本情境化。通过数据挖掘和其他基于网络的技术，这种更广泛的样本语境化将被连接到布料的数字结构映射中。我们的假设是，编织技术作为保守的组织特征，具有可以在纺织品设计的工作语法中映射的本体论关联，并与社会文化和历史数据相关。以编织者的视角为中心，我们的方法超越了对布料表面特征的分析，而是优先考虑其技术和结构特性。现有的软件，适应了表达安第斯布的3D性质，将与数字照片，视频和文本数据一起输入我们的数据库设计。我们的界面设计优先考虑面向内容的访问和图形化概念浏览器，以直观地表达这种编织透视图。数据库文档，建立在伦敦伯克贝克学院伊比利亚和拉丁美洲视觉研究中心的网站上（bbk.ac）。英国/cilavs)，将视觉纺织信息系统化，允许学术学科基于本体论的编织结构探索，绘制文化实践和身份之间的社会符号学关系。与欧洲和拉丁美洲馆藏馆长的研讨会将协调信息收集、方法和分析。数据收集、分析和组织的主要项目阶段，与创新的获取和分析手段相结合，具有广泛的认知和策展目标。第二个应用方面回应了地区编织者保护其文化遗产免受盗版的关注，并将当地编织剧目引入新的教育课程。我们的软件和数据库设计将满足这两种需求。在玻利维亚、秘鲁和智利进行的研究，结合当地和英国的博物馆研究，以先前的人种学、考古学和博物馆学知识和接触为基础，重点关注3个地区，以及3个时间范围：蒂瓦纳库、英卡早期殖民地和当代。这项研究迫在眉睫。由于以前的教育趋势，忽视了地区纺织生产，支持新兴的全球纺织工业，现代形式的识字，以及从农村社区向外迁移，年轻一代不再想编织。目前非政府组织的干预也在改变区域设计的剧目，从而改变了历史的连续性和身份问题。与此同时，当代政治正在产生另一种教育需求，在非殖民化背景下寻求新的基于身份的课程。我们的民族志研究关注濒危编织实践的文化拯救，同时提供新的方法来记录它们并将它们与新兴产业联系起来。

In place of writing, textiles in Andean civilizations were developed over millennia by visually literate populations to document and display complex data. Academic studies worldwide are intrigued by this massive cultural use of information display, yet limited in methods of approach. Drawing on new methodologies combining fieldwork, digital documentation, information visualization and ontology, this project develops a common language for understanding Andean cloth to be shared between Visual, Computer and Museum Studies. Research to date has established that textiles bear messages. Some are understood; others are still inaccessible due to the incomplete data sets available for scrutiny, discontinuous time sequences of samples, and limited correlation with comparative materials from the ethnographic and historical record, and commentaries from living weavers. To overcome this, we opt for regional rather than local sampling procedures to give us greater access to materials, while our interdisciplinary approach promotes greater sample contextualization. Through data mining and other web-based techniques, this wider sample contextualization will be articulated to a digital structural mapping of cloth. Our hypothesis is that weaving techniques, as conservative organising features, have ontological associations that can be mapped in a working grammar of textile design, and correlated with socio-cultural and historical data. Centred in a weaver's perspective, our approach goes beyond the analysis of surface features of cloth to give precedence to its technical and structural properties. Existing software, adapted to express Andean cloth's 3D nature, will feed into our database design, together with digital photos, video and text data. Our interface design gives priority to content-oriented access, and a graphical concept browser, to express this weaving perspective visually.Database documentation, building on the site at the Centre for Iberian and Latin American Visual Studies, Birkbeck College London (bbk.ac.uk/cilavs), will systematize visual textile information, permitting academic disciplines an ontology-based exploration of weaving structures that map the social semiotic relations between cultural practices and identities. Workshops with curators of European and Latin American collections will coordinate information collection, methods, and analysis. The main project stages of data collection, analysis and organisation, articulated to innovative means of access and analysis, have broad cognitive and curatorial goals. A secondary applied aspect responds to concerns of regional weavers to defend their cultural patrimony from piracy, and introduce local weaving repertories into new educational curricula. Our software and database design will respond to both these needs. Research contextResearch in Bolivia, Peru and Chile, combined with museum research there and in the UK, focuses on 3 regions on the basis of previous ethnographic, archaeological and museological knowledge and contacts, and 3 time horizons: Tiwanaku, the Inka-early colony, and the contemporary.This study is urgent. As a result of former educational trends, ignoring regional textile production in favour of an emerging global textile industry, modern forms of literacy, and out-migration from rural communities, younger generations no longer want to weave. Current NGO interventions too are changing regional design repertories, and hence historical continuities and identity questions. At the same time, contemporary politics are generating alternative educational demands that seek new identity-based curricula in a decolonizing context. Our ethnographic research concerns the cultural rescue of endangered weaving practices, while providing new methods to document and link them to emerging industries.