Addressing Alice: The Emergence of a Style Icon, 1865-1890

自1865年刘易斯卡罗尔的《爱丽丝梦游仙境》首次出版以来，已经过去了近150年。然而，最近被称为爱丽丝的“诱惑”在世界各地的不同领域有增无减。她出现的书籍继续被广泛阅读，研究，研究和改编成一个折衷的媒体范围。此外，许多人--年轻人和老年人，世界著名的和不知名的--为她设计衣服，穿她装饰的衣服，穿得像她一样。因此，她构成了一个考察时尚与小说之间相互联系的理想案例。这个项目探讨了爱丽丝在书中穿着的许多不同的方式，以及在卡罗尔一生中制作的各种相关物品中，从墙纸到饼干罐。它还追溯了爱丽丝作为一个角色被真实的孩子们在故事的戏剧改编（专业和业余）的背景下所体现的收养，以及在那个时期非常流行的化装舞会和派对中。因此，爱丽丝被置于文学和艺术背景下，与作家，插图画家，表演者和剧作家有关，但也在普通儿童的日常经历和活动中，提供了对文学作品在年轻读者生活中的涟漪效应的洞察。通过其创新的服装为基础的方法，该项目旨在促进正在进行的关键辩论爱丽丝的性格和语境，历史化，从而陌生化的字符，其形象现在是如此牢固地固定。它以前所未有的细节追溯了她的视觉身份的演变，精确地指出了特定特征的出现，例如她与蓝色的联系，以及她更普遍的形象性。从第一次提请注意她的多样性，它的挑战收到了关键的想法，把她的视觉身份在世纪初的扩散。通过专注于服装不仅在插图，物质文化和专业适应，而且在业余制作和奇装异服，该项目将扩展到更广阔的世界的接收，传输和爱丽丝书籍的演变研究-无论是英国以外，超越文本。对世纪爱丽丝的更详细的了解为研究后期及其相关媒体提供了基础，并考察了其他文化背景。但该项目也旨在为卡罗尔专家以外的学者开辟可能的途径和方法，将服装纳入儿童文学研究人员的视野，将童年的领域纳入时尚（/小说）学者的视野。此外，至关重要的是，该项目的方法侧重于服装，并结合了各种各样的源材料，特别是与奇装异服的明显不足的形式有关，将是非常可转移的，可用于绘制任何角色的来世跨越时间和空间。该项目将涉及爱丽丝语料库和广泛的档案研究，主要是在伦敦与RA一起进行仔细阅读。此外，我将与一个模式切割密切合作，以产生一个服装展示，以更好地了解转移到三维爱丽丝的二维插图所涉及的过程。与项目伙伴V&A童年博物馆和刘易斯卡罗尔协会的合作将产生进一步的产出和活动（展览和研讨会），恰逢2015年《爱丽丝梦游仙境》首次出版150周年。

It is almost 150 years since the first publication of Lewis Carroll's 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' in 1865. Yet what has recently been referred to as the 'allure' of Alice goes on unabated in diverse spheres across the world. The books in which she appears continue to be widely read, studied, researched and adapted to an eclectic range of media. In addition, a vast array of people - young and old, world-famous and unknown - design clothes for her, wear clothes which she adorns and dress like her. As such, she constitutes an ideal case for an examination of the interconnections between fashion and fiction. This project explores the many different ways in which Alice was dressed in the books themselves and in the wide array of related articles, from wallpaper to biscuits tins, produced in Carroll's lifetime. It also traces the adoption of Alice as a character to be embodied by real children in the context of dramatic adaptations of the stories (professional and amateur) and also in the hugely popular fancy dress balls and parties of the period. Alice is thus placed within both a literary and artistic context, in relation to writers, illustrators, performers and playwrights, but also in the everyday experiences and activities of ordinary children, providing insight into the ripple effect of literary works in the lives of young readers. Through its innovative dress-based approach, the project aims to contribute to ongoing critical debates about Alice's character and to contextualise, historicise and thereby defamiliarise a character whose image is now so firmly fixed. It traces the evolution of her visual identity in unprecedented detail, pinpointing the emergence of specific features, such as her association with the colour blue, and of her iconicity more generally. Drawing attention to her multiplicity from the first, it challenges received critical ideas which have placed the proliferation of her visual identity in the early twentieth century. By focusing on dress not only in illustration, material culture and professional adaptation, but also in amateur productions and fancy dress, the project will extend study of the reception, transmission and evolution of the Alice books into the wider world - both beyond the UK, and beyond the textual. A more detailed understanding of Alice in the nineteenth century provides the foundations for studies moving into later periods and their associated media, and examining alternative cultural contexts. But the project also aims to open up possible avenues and approaches for academics other than Carroll specialists, bringing dress within the purview of children's literature researchers and the realm of childhood within that of fashion(/fiction) scholars. Crucially, in addition, the project's methodology which focuses on dress and combines a diverse range of source materials, especially relating to the distinctly understudied form of fancy dress, will be eminently transferable and can be used to chart the afterlife of any character across time and space. The project will involve close-reading of the Alice corpus and extensive archival research, predominantly undertaken in London in conjunction with a RA. In addition, I will work closely with a pattern cutter to produce a garment for display in order to better understand the processes involved in transferring a 2-d illustration of Alice into 3 dimensions. Collaborations with project partners, the V&A Museum of Childhood and the Lewis Carroll Society, will produce further outputs and activities (an exhibition and symposium) coinciding with the 150th anniversary of the first publication of 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' in 2015.