Archaeology of Fashion Film

时尚电影考古学

• 批准号: AH/P004598/1
• 负责人: Caroline Evans
• 金额: $ 38.13万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2017
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2017 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FP004598%2F1
• 关键词: Archaeology; Fashion; Film

This research project is the first to systematically investigate the hidden history of fashion film in the silent era between 1900 and 1929, and its legacy for the rapidly changing field of fashion communications today, both in the UK and globally. It posits fashion film as a unique hybrid of two industries with distinct practices, resources, and motivations. Its interdisciplinary approach provides a new historical and theoretical framework for understanding this important and increasingly popular phenomenon. To that end, the project brings together scholars with combined expertise in film history, fashion history and media studies, and practitioners involved in various aspects of contemporary fashion film production. The study of fashion film has been neglected in both film and fashion histories, and in the fashion industry it is often assumed to be a novel product of the digital age. The project redresses this by conducting extensive archival and filmographic research into fashion film of the silent era, and by subjecting these findings to a comparison with the practices of emergent digital fashion film in the early 21st century - another period of rapid technological and cultural change. We use 'media archaeology' as an innovative, non-linear method of connecting these two periods. Although not historically proximate, each period acts as a critical prism for understanding the other. More broadly, we will also investigate the potential of media archaeology approaches to 'rewire' established fashion history methodologies and to inform contemporary fashion practice.Emphasising for the first time the transformative effects of film on fashion in both periods, the project forges a new understanding of film as a 'fashion medium' and as a 'fashion object'. It will make a major contribution to scholarly studies of the history of fashion, of film, and of fashion film, and will change how contemporary fashion filmmakers and other media practitioners understand the history of their discipline and the context for their own creative and commercial work.The project team is based at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, and Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton. The project's methods span fashion history and theory, fashion in film studies and media archaeology. The specialist art school environment is a singularly appropriate milieu for this project because its research activities regularly combine historical and theoretical research with art and design practice. The team will work closely in partnership with AnOther.com (an influential online magazine owned by Dazed Media, a leading UK-based international media platform with a focus on culture, fashion and lifestyle), the British Film Institute (the UK's foremost body for the collection, preservation, exhibition and promotion of film and the moving image), the British Fashion Council (the national organisation for the promotion of British fashion design and media in a global market), Somerset House (a major arts and cultural centre based in London) and Moravska Galerie Brno (a major national arts museum in the Czech Republic) to ensure a broad range of outputs and impacts, and wide dissemination. The outputs include: workshops, a showcase on a contemporary media platform, a conference, an international touring exhibition of historical fashion film at Somerset House and Moravska Galerie, Brno, public-facing screenings and discussion events, and several publications: a monograph accompanying the exhibition, a book documenting the conversations between academics and media industry practitioners, and a special issue of the Journal of Visual Culture.

这个研究项目是第一个系统地调查时尚电影在1900年至1929年之间的无声时代的隐藏历史，以及它对当今英国和全球迅速变化的时尚传播领域的影响。它将时尚电影视为两个行业的独特混合体，具有不同的实践，资源和动机。它的跨学科方法为理解这一重要且日益流行的现象提供了一个新的历史和理论框架。为此，该项目汇集了在电影史，时尚史和媒体研究的综合专业知识的学者，以及参与当代时尚电影制作各个方面的从业者。时尚电影的研究在电影史和时尚史上都被忽视了，在时尚界，它通常被认为是数字时代的新产品。该项目通过对无声时代的时尚电影进行广泛的档案和电影研究，并将这些研究结果与21世纪初新兴的数字时尚电影的实践进行比较来纠正这一点-另一个快速技术和文化变革的时期。我们使用“媒体考古学”作为连接这两个时期的创新，非线性方法。虽然在历史上并不接近，但每个时期都是理解另一个时期的关键棱镜。更广泛地说，我们还将探讨媒体考古学方法的潜力，以“重新连接”既定的时尚历史方法，并告知当代时尚实践。该项目首次强调电影对时尚的变革性影响，在这两个时期，电影作为一种“时尚媒介”和“时尚对象”形成了一种新的理解。它将为时尚史、电影史和时尚电影史的学术研究做出重大贡献，并将改变当代时尚电影制作人和其他媒体从业者对他们学科历史以及他们自己的创意和商业作品背景的理解。项目团队位于中央圣马丁艺术学院、伦敦艺术大学和南安普顿大学温彻斯特艺术学院。该项目的研究方法涵盖时尚历史和理论、电影研究中的时尚和媒体考古学。专业艺术学校的环境对于该项目来说是一个非常合适的环境，因为它的研究活动定期将历史和理论研究与艺术和设计实践联合收割机结合起来。该团队将与www.example.com密切合作AnOther.com（Dazed Media旗下一本颇具影响力的在线杂志，Dazed Media是一家专注于文化、时尚和生活方式的英国领先国际媒体平台）、英国电影学院（British Film Institute）英国时装理事会（英国最重要的电影和运动影像收藏、保存、展览和推广机构）（在全球市场推广英国时装设计和媒体的国家组织），萨默塞特酒店（一个主要的艺术和文化中心，总部设在伦敦）和摩拉维亚画廊布尔诺（捷克共和国的一个主要国家艺术博物馆），以确保广泛的产出和影响，并广泛传播。产出包括：2010年，在布尔诺举办了一系列研讨会、一次当代媒体平台展示会、一次会议、在萨默塞特楼和Moravska画廊举办的历史时尚电影国际巡回展、面向公众的放映和讨论活动，以及若干出版物：一本展览专著、一本记录学者和媒体行业从业者之间对话的书，以及一期“视觉文化杂志”特刊。

项目成果

Archaeology of fashion film

时尚电影考古学

• DOI: 10.1386/infs.6.1.119_7
• 发表时间: 2019
• 期刊: International Journal of Fashion Studies
• 影响因子: 0.4
• 作者: Ferreira L

Excavating fashion film: a media archaeological perspective

挖掘时尚电影：媒体考古学视角

• DOI: 10.1177/1470412920964915
• 发表时间: 2020
• 期刊: Journal of Visual Culture
• 影响因子: 1.4
• 作者: Uhlirova M

The Oxford Handbook of Film Theory

牛津电影理论手册

• DOI: 10.1093/oxfordhb/9780190873929.013.20
• 发表时间: 2022
• 作者: Uhlirova M

Maison Sonia Delaunay

索尼娅·德劳内宅邸

• 发表时间: 2022
• 作者: Uhlirova M

Beauty: A Logistical Imaginary

美：逻辑想象

• 发表时间: 2019
• 期刊: Liverpool Biennial
• 作者: Parikka J