Fashion Fictions: imagining sustainable fashion worlds

时尚小说：想象可持续的时尚世界

• 批准号: AH/V01286X/1
• 负责人: Amy Holroyd
• 金额: $ 25.74万
• 依托单位: Nottingham Trent University
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Fellowship
• 财政年份: 2021
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2021 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FV01286X%2F1
• 关键词: Fashion; Fictions; imagining; sustainable; fashion

The globalised fashion and textile industry is deeply implicated in the devastation of Earth's life-supporting systems, with negative environmental and social impacts generated at every stage of a garment's lifecycle. Incremental improvements delivered by recent industrial initiatives have been overshadowed by a dramatic increase in the volume of garments produced and consumed. In contrast, a 'post-growth' approach to fashion would work within the Earth's capacity to support life, requiring an uncompromising reduction in resources used in the global North, of between 75% and 95%. To achieve this, we must look beyond specific strategies for design, manufacturing and disposal - which remain the focus of much public, professional and academic attention - to reimagine the entire fashion system.This research aims to influence and energise the emergent post-growth fashion movement by bringing people together to generate, experience and reflect on engaging fictional visions of alternative fashion cultures and systems. The participatory process for collective speculation has a three-stage structure, with Stage 1 inviting researchers and laypeople to submit concise written outlines of worlds in which invented historical junctures have led to familiar-yet-strange sustainable cultures and systems. In Stage 2's prototyping workshops, diverse groups of participants will add complexity to a selection of these fictions, while Stage 3's 'everyday dress' projects will see participants performatively enacting four of the prototyped cultures and systems. These activities will produce rich data for analysis, allowing consideration of the material and social practices within the fictional worlds. Historical or contemporary real-world examples which connect to the fictions will be gathered in order to highlight hidden sources of inspiration for sustainable fashion and identify theories and insights that could be usefully applied to the imagined cultures and systems.Stories of the fictional worlds and findings of the research will be disseminated to three target groups: researchers, professional practitioners and laypeople with interests in sustainability and fashion. The prototypes created by participants, along with engaging video, textual and visual content developed via four creative commissions, will support communication of the worlds to a wide audience. Dissemination activities include a scholarly book, an exhibition and associated events at Nottingham Castle, and online dissemination in partnership with Atlas of the Future, a platform which promotes people and projects working to create a better world. Two conference papers and a journal article will target academic audiences. The project also creates opportunities for people to explore alternative fashion worlds for themselves via online prototyping workshops and open 'wardrobe challenges'. An international network will support related projects run in higher education contexts, while how-to guides will enable people to run their own Fashion Fictions workshops and events.The project forges a productive connection between the field of fashion and sustainability and the intersecting disciplines of design anthropology, speculative design and experiential futures. It also links the nuanced cultural understandings associated with fashion theory and history to generative design-led research in fashion and sustainability. This novel approach to the investigation of post-growth ideas will make an influential contribution to the field by reshaping academic, professional and public understandings of the possibilities for sustainable fashion, from incremental changes to the design and manufacture of clothes to radically different ways of fashioning our identities. With the ongoing global pandemic disrupting the fashion industry and prompting debate about the pursuit of similarly drastic action to address the climate emergency, this research is especially timely.

全球化的时装和纺织业与地球生命支持系统的破坏有着深刻的关系，在服装生命周期的每个阶段都会产生负面的环境和社会影响。最近的工业举措所带来的逐步改进被服装生产和消费量的急剧增加所掩盖。相比之下，“后增长”的时尚方式将在地球支持生命的能力范围内发挥作用，需要不折不扣地减少全球北方使用的资源，减少75%至95%。为了实现这一目标，我们必须超越设计、制造和处置的具体策略--这些仍然是公众、专业和学术界关注的焦点--来重新构想整个时尚体系。这项研究旨在通过将人们聚集在一起，创造、体验和反思另类时尚文化和系统的虚构愿景，来影响和激励新兴的后增长时尚运动。集体思考的参与过程有三个阶段的结构，第一阶段邀请研究人员和外行提交简明的书面纲要，说明在哪些世界中，发明的历史转折点导致了熟悉但陌生的可持续文化和系统。在第二阶段的原型工作坊中，不同的参与者群体将为这些小说的选择增加复杂性，而第三阶段的“日常着装”项目将看到参与者表演性地制定四个原型文化和系统。这些活动将产生丰富的数据进行分析，允许考虑虚构世界中的物质和社会实践。我们将收集与小说相关的历史或当代现实世界的例子，以突出可持续时尚的隐藏灵感来源，并确定可以有效应用于想象中的文化和系统的理论和见解。虚构世界的故事和研究结果将传播给三个目标群体：研究人员、专业从业人员和对可持续发展和时尚感兴趣的外行人。参与者创建的原型，以及由四个创意委员会开发的引人入胜的视频、文本和视觉内容，沿着而来，将支持与广大受众的世界沟通。传播活动包括一本学术书籍、在诺丁汉城堡举办的展览和相关活动，以及与“未来地图集”合作进行的在线传播，这是一个促进人们和项目努力创造一个更美好世界的平台。两篇会议论文和一篇期刊文章将针对学术受众。该项目还为人们创造了机会，通过在线原型工作室和开放的“衣柜挑战”为自己探索替代时尚世界。一个国际网络将支持在高等教育背景下运行的相关项目，而操作指南将使人们能够运行自己的时尚小说研讨会和活动。该项目在时尚和可持续发展领域与设计人类学，投机设计和体验未来的交叉学科之间建立了富有成效的联系。它还将与时尚理论和历史相关的微妙文化理解与时尚和可持续性的生成设计主导的研究联系起来。这种新的方法来调查后增长的想法将通过重塑学术，专业和公众对可持续时尚的可能性的理解，从服装的设计和制造的渐进变化到塑造我们身份的根本不同的方式，对该领域做出有影响力的贡献。随着持续的全球流行病扰乱了时尚业，并引发了关于采取类似激烈行动来应对气候紧急情况的辩论，这项研究尤其及时。

项目成果

Prototyping fictional fashion worlds: how can textiles help us to imagine realities beyond the present?

虚构时尚世界的原型：纺织品如何帮助我们想象超越现在的现实？

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Twigger Holroyd, A.

Fashion Fictions: student experiences of designing sustainable fashion worlds

时尚小说：设计可持续时尚世界的学生体验

• 发表时间: 2022
• 作者: Aspinall M.

Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion: Inspiration for Change

可持续时尚的历史视角：变革的灵感

• 发表时间: 2023
• 作者: Holroyd

Writing alternative fashion worlds: frustrations, fictions and imaginaries

书写另类时尚世界：挫折、虚构和想象

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Twigger Holroyd, A.

Design Futuring for Love, Friendship, and Kinships: Five Perspectives on Intimacy

为爱、友谊和亲情设计未来：亲密关系的五个视角

• DOI: 10.1145/3491101.3516388
• 发表时间: 2022
• 作者: Sharma S