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Locating 'the Absent Shadow': Exploring Connections and Encounters in British Menswear

寻找“缺席的影子”：探索英国男装中的联系和邂逅

基本信息

批准号：
AH/X001431/1
负责人：
Andrew Groves
金额：
$ 4.39万
依托单位：
University of Westminster
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Research Grant
财政年份：
2022
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2022 至无数据
项目状态：
未结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FX001431%2F1
关键词：
Locating Absent Shadow Exploring Connections

项目摘要

This network is framed by the concerns of the Westminster Menswear Archive (WMA), a unique teaching collection held by the University of Westminster. The collection holds over 2000 menswear garments from 1780 to the present day, primarily focused on post-1940s British men's dress - clothing produced, designed, worn, or retailed in Britain. It includes designer fashion, streetwear, everyday dress, sportswear, workwear, and uniforms. It receives over 800 visitors each year and is utilised for research purposes by students, scholars, and designers in industry. It is modelled on Italian garment archives, particularly the menswear label C.P. Company, founded by designer Massimo Osti. Osti's collection was non-hierarchal, housing military, utilitarian, industrial, and fashion garments together. The WMA mirrors this approach, directly aiming to overcome the gender and high-fashion biases inherent in most teaching and museum collections of fashion. Menswear, relative to womenswear, is still underexplored in fashion research and exhibitions, despite growing interest in the field exemplified by an increasing number of menswear exhibitions, including Reigning Men (Los Angeles County Museum, 2016), Invisible Men (University of Westminster, 2019) and the forthcoming Dandy Style (Manchester Art Gallery, 2022). However, scholarship on British menswear has tended to focus on tailoring and tradition; spectacular and dandy style; and London. This network seeks to question these preoccupations by interrogating the fashion practices of the inhabitants of four key cities. Through a series of workshops, the network will bring together academics, curators, designers, retailers, and fashion industry professionals to investigate the links, relationships, and encounters between the local (Liverpool and Manchester), national (London), and international (Milan) menswear industries and communities. These will allow for the development of a framework for expanding to other cities. Workshop 1 London - Archiving, collecting, and curating British menswear Tour of the Westminster Menswear Archive. Before the workshop, each participant is invited to engage with the WMA through its online catalogue to select one garment relevant to their research or practice. These will be used as the starting point for discussion of the place of archival collections in researching and creating British menswear. Workshop 2 Milan - The location of the industrialisation of menswear Tour of the C.P. Company design studio and archive to examine how it is used to document the company's material culture and the foundation for a research methodology to inform concepts for new menswear outcomes. Workshop 3 Liverpool - The significance of a port city as a site of cultural exchangeSpecialist menswear retailers play an essential role in disseminating new menswear, acting as intermediaries between industry and consumers by curating garments relevant to specific local audiences.Workshop 4 Manchester - Subculture / Mass Culture: Menswear and Youth Style. The final workshop will focus on menswear, leisure, and youth cultures, using cross-generational participatory research that invites members of the public to share their narratives of youth style. The network will innovate in its approach, diversify its collaborative partners, and engage with previously overlooked menswear communities and creators by involving non-academic participants and practitioners, including those outside the fashion industry, and utilising the network's social media platforms for dissemination, feedback, and dialogue. A multidisciplinary approach strengthens the project, with academics from several disciplines such as music, youth studies, fashion design, fashion communication, and history bringing their unique perspectives to light on the network's questions.

这个网络是由威斯敏斯特男装档案（WMA），由威斯敏斯特大学举行的独特的教学收藏的关注。该系列拥有从1780年至今的2000多件男装，主要集中在20世纪40年代后的英国男装-在英国生产，设计，穿着或零售的服装。它包括设计师时装，街头服饰，日常服装，运动服，工作服和制服。它每年接待800多名游客，并被学生，学者和工业设计师用于研究目的。它以意大利服装档案为蓝本，特别是由设计师Massimo Osti创立的男装品牌C. P. Company。奥斯蒂的收藏是非等级的，包括军事、实用、工业和时尚服装。WMA反映了这种方法，直接旨在克服大多数教学和博物馆收藏的时尚中固有的性别和高级时尚偏见。相对于女装，男装在时尚研究和展览中的探索仍然不足，尽管越来越多的男装展览证明了对该领域的兴趣，包括Reigning Men（洛杉矶县博物馆，2016），Invisible Men（威斯敏斯特大学，2019）和即将到来的Dandy Style（曼彻斯特美术馆，2022）。然而，对英国男装的研究往往集中在剪裁和传统、壮观和花花公子风格以及伦敦。这个网络试图通过询问四个主要城市居民的时尚实践来质疑这些关注点。通过一系列的研讨会，该网络将汇集学者，策展人，设计师，零售商和时尚行业的专业人士，调查当地（利物浦和曼彻斯特），国家（伦敦）和国际（米兰）男装行业和社区之间的联系，关系和遭遇。这将有助于制定一个扩展到其他城市的框架。工作坊1伦敦-收集，收集和策划英国男装之旅的威斯敏斯特男装档案。在研讨会之前，每个参与者都被邀请通过其在线目录与WMA进行互动，选择一件与他们的研究或实践相关的服装。这些将被用作讨论档案收藏在研究和创造英国男装中的地位的起点。研讨会2米兰-男装工业化的位置参观C. P.公司的设计工作室和档案，以研究如何使用它来记录公司的物质文化和研究方法的基础，为新的男装成果提供信息。工作坊3利物浦-港口城市作为文化交流场所的重要性专业男装零售商在传播新男装方面发挥着至关重要的作用，通过策划与当地特定受众相关的服装，充当行业和消费者之间的中介。工作坊4曼彻斯特-亚文化/大众文化：男装和青年风格。最后的研讨会将侧重于男装，休闲和青年文化，采用跨代参与式研究，邀请公众成员分享他们对青年风格的叙述。该网络将创新其方法，使其合作伙伴多样化，并通过让非学术参与者和从业者（包括时尚行业以外的人）参与进来，并利用网络的社交媒体平台进行传播，反馈和对话，与以前被忽视的男装社区和创作者进行互动。多学科的方法加强了该项目，来自音乐，青年研究，时装设计，时尚传播和历史等多个学科的学者带来了他们独特的观点，以揭示网络的问题。