Blithe Spirits: Absent British Women Couturiers - The Rahvis Sisters

快乐精神：英国女性时装设计师的缺席 - Rahvis Sisters

• 批准号: 2446585
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: University of Westminster
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2020
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2020 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2446585
• 关键词: Blithe; Spirits; Absent; British; Women

This Practice based MPhil/PhD project intends to unearth, investigate and interrogate the absence/presence dichotomy surrounding the successful and prolific female designers - The Rahvis Sisters (Raemonde and Dora). It is concerned with how the Rahvis sisters' enduring ghostly presence via the medium of film and newsreel, newspapers and directories, challenges British culture's disavowal of the importance of accomplished women couturiers within the canon of Post War British Couture. This will be framed within a Feminist critique, particularly when locating where the Rahvis are and are not situated within Fashion History, are and are not posited, and do/do not exist today. Whilst engaging in an exploration of the fragments, the partials and the remnants of the Rahvis' existence, Archival and Artistic practice will be employed and discussed with regards to how, when and where we may discover them. By analysing and decoding these various historical communications as a form of provocation, the gaps and traces of their existence may be read and understood both in practice and theory. These readings will motivate the practice-based part of this project resulting in a collection of designs borne of the fragmentary descriptions of Rahvis' garments in newspapers and magazines (Trove.nla), a Faction novella constructed from found remnants of the Rahvis' biography in newspapers and interviews (Trove.nla, Pathé 1958) and a site-specific immersive performance, in the form of an interrogative fashion show, drawn from the residues of environments left to us in newsreels (Pathé, 1958). An Archival method (Pathé 1958, Trove.nla, British Phone Books 1929 - 1981, et al), will therefore work hand in hand with this practice-based, interdisciplinary methodology, with philosophical approaches to narrative, history and memory being applied and acknowledged.

这个基于实践的哲学硕士/博士项目旨在挖掘、调查和质疑围绕成功且多产的女性设计师——拉维斯姐妹（雷蒙德和朵拉）的缺席/在场二分法。它关注的是拉维斯姐妹如何通过电影、新闻片、报纸和目录媒介持久地幽灵般地存在，挑战英国文化对战后英国时装经典中成功女性时装设计师重要性的否认。这将在女权主义批评的框架内进行，特别是当确定拉维斯在时尚史中的位置和不位置、存在和不存在以及今天存在/不存在时。在探索拉维斯存在的碎片、部分和残余的同时，我们将采用档案和艺术实践并讨论我们如何、何时何地发现它们。通过将这些不同的历史交流作为一种挑衅的形式进行分析和解码，它们存在的间隙和痕迹可以在实践和理论上被解读和理解。这些阅读将激发该项目基于实践的部分，从而产生一系列设计，这些设计源自报纸和杂志上对拉维斯服装的碎片描述（Trove.nla），一部根据报纸和采访中发现的拉维斯传记残迹构建的派系中篇小说（Trove.nla，Pathé 1958）以及特定地点的沉浸式表演，其形式是 充满疑问的时装秀，源自新闻片中留给我们的环境残留物（Pathé，1958）。因此，档案方法（Pathé 1958、Trove.nla、英国电话簿 1929 - 1981 等）将与这种基于实践的跨学科方法论携手并进，并应用和认可叙事、历史和记忆的哲学方法。