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Waves in Shallow Water: A new approach based on high-frequency remote sensing and wave-by-wave analysis

浅水中的波浪：基于高频遥感和逐浪分析的新方法

基本信息

批准号：
EP/N019237/1
负责人：
Christopher Blenkinsopp
金额：
$ 12.68万
依托单位：
University of Bath
依托单位国家：
英国
项目类别：
Research Grant
财政年份：
2016
资助国家：
英国
起止时间：
2016 至无数据
项目状态：
已结题

来源：
https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=EP%2FN019237%2F1
关键词：
Waves Shallow Water new approach

项目摘要

The storms experienced in the UK during the winter of 2013/2014 highlighted the vulnerability of the coast to structural damage, flooding and coastal erosion due to extreme waves and water levels, and the economic and societal costs of such events. Predictions indicate that these events will become increasingly common due to rising sea levels and greater storminess, presenting a significant challenge for the sustainable management of the coast, approximately 30% of which is already protected by hard engineering structures on the UK mainland. As nearshore waves are a key cause of coastal flooding and erosion, the goal of this research project is to increase our understanding of their behaviour, providing the basis for improved predictions of wave processes and their effect on our engineered and natural coasts.Sandy beaches account for approximately 75% of the World's ice-free coastlines. As ocean waves approach beaches they undergo rapid transformation as they break in shallow water, propagate through the surf zone as white-water bores and then drive wave runup in the swash zone. Shallow water waves cause forces on coastal structures, drive sediment transport, lead to overtopping of coastal defences and dunes, and cause beach and cliff erosion. Consequently, an understanding of wave transformation is of critical importance for coastal engineers. However, due to the complex nature of waves in the nearshore, theoretical descriptions are limited and numerical modelling approaches typically rely on empirical approximations to describe breaking and broken waves based mainly on laboratory results which are subject to scale effects and do not necessarily reproduce the variability of waves in nature. Shallow water wave processes are key to the numerical models of shoreline change and coastal flooding which are used by engineers to inform coastal management decisions. To improve the predictive capability of these models, high quality field data are required, but existing measurements fail to fully capture the variability and highly non-linear shape of shallow water waves due to their limited coverage across the surf zone and low spatial resolution.To address this internationally relevant research gap, the proposed study will apply a newly developed remote sensing approach using a network of jetty-mounted Lidar at two typical beach sites to obtain measurements of rapidly evolving waves across the complete surf and swash zone at high frequency and a spatial resolution an order of magnitude higher than previously achieved. Uniquely, this capability allows individual waves to be tracked from the break point to the limit of maximum wave runup on the beach, enabling an analysis of wave characteristics on a wave-by-wave basis. The two sites have been selected to obtain a wide range of wave conditions at locations with jetty infrastructure, but the results will inform our fundamental understanding of waves and so be relevant to the majority of sandy coastlines. The new data, combined with beach topography information and measurements of flow velocities will form a valuable field-dataset, which will be analysed to answer fundamental unresolved questions related to wave transformation in the nearshore, and improve the representations of breaking and broken waves used in predictive wave models. Additionally the new dataset will be made available to the research community following project completion. Improvements in our ability to model nearshore waves will reduce uncertainty in predictions of wave forcing on engineered structures and the natural coastal environment. This would enable better assessment of shoreline erosion and coastal hazards, providing the opportunity for more efficient coastal planning and design of coastal defence schemes which would directly or indirectly impact a range of academic, public and industry stakeholders including coastal engineers and scientists, coastal communities, insurers and coastal managers.

2013/2014年冬季在英国经历的风暴凸显了由于极端海浪和水位导致的海岸结构破坏、洪水和海岸侵蚀的脆弱性，以及此类事件的经济和社会成本。预测表明，由于海平面上升和更大的风暴，这些事件将变得越来越普遍，对海岸的可持续管理提出了重大挑战，英国大陆上大约30%的海岸已经受到硬工程结构的保护。由于近岸波浪是沿海洪水和侵蚀的主要原因，本研究项目的目标是增加我们对其行为的理解，为改进波浪过程及其对我们的工程和自然海岸的影响的预测提供基础。沙滩约占世界无冰海岸线的75%。当海浪接近海滩时，它们在浅水中破碎，经历了快速的转变，以白浪孔的形式在冲浪区传播，然后在冲浪区掀起波浪。浅水波浪对海岸结构产生作用力，推动沉积物的搬运，导致海岸防御工事和沙丘的溢顶，并造成海滩和悬崖的侵蚀。因此，对波浪变换的理解对海岸工程师来说至关重要。然而，由于近岸波浪的复杂性，理论描述是有限的，数值模拟方法通常依靠经验近似来描述主要基于实验室结果的破碎和破碎波，这些结果受尺度效应的影响，不一定能再现自然界中波浪的可变性。浅水波浪过程是岸线变化和海岸洪水数值模型的关键，这些模型被工程师用来为海岸管理决策提供信息。为了提高这些模型的预测能力，需要高质量的现场数据，但由于浅水波浪在整个冲浪带的覆盖范围有限，空间分辨率低，现有的测量结果无法完全捕捉到浅水波浪的变异性和高度非线性形状。为了解决这一国际上相关的研究差距，拟议的研究将采用一种新开发的遥感方法，在两个典型的海滩站点使用码头安装的激光雷达网络，以高频率和比以前更高的空间分辨率获得整个冲浪和冲刷区快速演变的波浪的测量。独特的是，这种能力允许跟踪单个波浪从断点到海滩上最大波浪的极限，从而能够逐波分析波浪特征。选择这两个地点是为了在有码头基础设施的地方获得广泛的波浪条件，但结果将告知我们对波浪的基本理解，因此与大多数沙质海岸线有关。新的数据，结合海滩地形信息和流速测量将形成一个有价值的现场数据集，将对其进行分析，以回答与近岸波浪变换相关的基本未解决问题，并改进预测波浪模型中使用的破碎波和破碎波的表示。此外，新的数据集将在项目完成后提供给研究界。我们模拟近岸波浪的能力的提高将减少对工程结构和自然海岸环境的波浪强迫预测的不确定性。这将有助于更好地评估海岸线侵蚀和沿海灾害，为更有效的沿海规划和沿海防御计划的设计提供机会，这些计划将直接或间接地影响学术界、公众和工业界的利益相关者，包括沿海工程师和科学家、沿海社区、保险公司和沿海管理人员。

项目成果

期刊论文数量（10）

专著数量（0）

科研奖励数量（0）

会议论文数量（0）

专利数量（0）

Wave runup video motion detection using the Radon Transform

DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.09.015
发表时间：
2017-12-01
期刊：
COASTAL ENGINEERING
影响因子：
4.4
作者：
Almar, Rafael;Blenkinsopp, Chris;Catalan, Patricio A.
通讯作者：
Catalan, Patricio A.

A new remote predictor of wave reflection based on runup asymmetry

DOI：
10.1016/j.ecss.2018.10.018
发表时间：
2019-02
期刊：
Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science
影响因子：
0
作者：
R. Almar;C. Blenkinsopp;L. Almeida;P. Catalán;E. Bergsma;R. Cienfuegos;N. Viet
通讯作者：
R. Almar;C. Blenkinsopp;L. Almeida;P. Catalán;E. Bergsma;R. Cienfuegos;N. Viet

Wave runup on composite beaches and dynamic cobble berm revetments

复合海滩和动态鹅卵石护岸上的波浪涌动