Modelling wave interactions over space and time.

世界上的海洋在现代生活的许多方面发挥着重要作用，从运输到能源生产。海浪是在海洋中作业的船只和结构所面临的主要挑战之一，它驱动的海浪导致沿海洪水和侵蚀。在某些情况下，这些海浪会造成严重破坏，危及建筑物、船只、社区和生命。由此产生的科学挑战是了解可能导致灾难性破坏的条件。要做到这一点，通常是描述海洋中给定区域的条件。这样就有可能了解当这些海浪向岸上传播时，我们预计会对这些条件下的结构或船只或沿海社区产生什么样的影响。要做到这一点，我们使用的数据，从测量设备，如浮标，位于感兴趣的区域。然后，我们试图估计可能产生这些观察结果的条件。通常，科学家和工程师通过开发海浪行为的一般模型来实现这一目标，然后将其与观测到的数据相匹配。在大多数情况下，这些模型必须考虑到多个波浪系统。如果波浪系统是局部产生的（风浪），那么它们的行为就会与从海洋其他地方传播过来的（巨浪）不同。更复杂的是，这些天气系统以难以预测的方式相互作用，这对那些对模拟波浪行为感兴趣的人提出了额外的挑战。在整个项目过程中，我们的目标是利用时间序列分析的最先进技术来改进从业者估计模型参数的方式，并对条件如何随时间变化进行建模。更先进的技术也可以用于探索涌浪和风海系统之间的非线性相互作用，这在确定实践中经历的条件方面起着重要作用。与JBA信托公司合作。

The world's oceans play an important role in many aspects of modern life, from transportation to energy generation. Ocean waves are one of the main challenges faced by vessels and structures operating in the oceans, and drive the waves that cause coastal flooding and erosion. In certain conditions these waves can cause severe damage, endangering structures, vessels, communities and lives.The resulting scientific challenge is to understand the conditions that can cause instances of catastrophic damage. To do this it is common to describe the conditions in a given area of the ocean. It is then possible to understand what kind of impacts we would expect on a structure or vessel that is in these conditions or on coastal communities when these waves propagate onshore.To do this we use data, taken from a measuring device, such as a buoy, situated in the area of interest. We then try to estimate the conditions that could have given rise to these observations. Usually scientists and engineers do this by developing general models for ocean wave behaviour that they then fit to the observed data. In most cases, these models have to account for multiple wave systems. The waves systems behave differently if they are generated locally (wind sea waves) than if they have travelled from elsewhere in the ocean (swell waves). An added complexity is that these weather systems interact with one another in ways that are very difficult to predict, presenting an extra challenge to those interested in modelling wave behaviour.Throughout the course of this project, we aim to utilise state of the art techniques from time series analysis to improve the way in which practitioners can estimate model parameters, and model how conditions can change over time. More advanced techniques can also be employed to explore the non-linear interactions between swell and wind sea systems, which plays an important role in determining the conditions that are experienced in practice.In partnership with JBA Trust.