Queer Fashion: Examining LGBTIQ Identity, Aesthetics and Commerce in London as a global city.

本文旨在通过对杂志的语篇分析和对伦敦的酷儿时尚创意者的访谈，探讨“酷儿时尚”的各种定义。酷儿时尚，或属于这一术语的一些元素，在2015年至2019年的分析期间经历了主流化。这种主流化的突出例子包括“另类”演员偏好的增加、中性和“agender”时装系列、每年有针对性的骄傲商品，以及伦敦酷儿时装秀等活动和艺术学校集体等品牌背后的动力。通过时尚的酷儿身份识别已经从编码和地下转移到自豪和有利可图。伦敦因其作为全球时尚之都的地位及其众多、多元文化和活跃的LGBTQ+社区而融入了这一新兴现象。本文将探讨酷儿时尚创意者在个人身份、社区参与和商业实践之间的联系，并以此为基础，对现有的关于性、时尚和市场的研究提供创新性的干预。其目标是通过绘制其关键参与者，干预地点以及美学实践，行动主义和商业之间的联系来定义酷儿时尚。

This thesis aims to investigate the various definitions of "queer fashion" by analysing the discourses that the term mobilizes through magazine textual discourse analysis and interviews with queer fashion creatives based in London. Queer fashion, or some elements that can fall under this umbrella term, has experienced a mainstreaming through the analysed period of 2015 to 2019. Prominent examples of this mainstreaming include a rise in 'alternative' casting preferences, unisex and 'agender' fashion collections, yearly targeted Pride merchandise, and the momentum behind events such as London Queer Fashion Show and brands such as Art School Collective. Queer identification through fashion has moved from being encoded and underground, to proud and profitable. London is embedded in this emerging phenomenon due to its status as a global fashion capital and its numerous, multicultural and active LGBTQ+ communities. This thesis will investigate what connections queer fashion creatives draw between personal identity, community participation, and commercial practices, and with this it aims to offer an innovative intervention into existing research on sexuality, fashion and the market. Its objectives are to define queer fashion by mapping its key players, sites of intervention, and the connections forged between aesthetic practices, activism and commerce.