Developing an Analytical Protocol for Synthetic Organic Textile Dyes for Use in Cultural Heritage Studies

制定用于文化遗产研究的合成有机纺织染料的分析方案

• 批准号: 2577146
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: University of Glasgow
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2021
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2021 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2577146
• 关键词: Developing; Analytical; Protocol; Synthetic; Organic

The development of the first synthetic dyes in the late 19th century led to a major transformation of the textile dyeing industry. The advent of synthetic dyes opened up the possibility to create new colours, improve fastness and eliminate the reliance of the textile industry on naturalresources, resulting in increased productivity and commercial availability. Studying synthetic pigments in the period of rapid industrial expansion, spanning 1865 until the early 20th century, can provide key information about the behaviours of the industry during this time, and the fashion, creativity and tastes of those who utilised them. One key tool for the study of dyed textile artefacts is analytical textile studies with scientificmethodologies to identify the chemical composition of the dyes (1-3). The information obtained from these studies can give evidence about how an artefact was made and in turn provide clues about the history, provenance and value of an object, and how best to preserve and conserve artefacts with respect to their chemical requirements and history. The majority of research to date has considered the analysis of artefacts dyed with natural dyes. However, as the heritage significance of synthetically dyed artefacts of the 19th and early 20th centuries increase, raise curatorial questions and require conservation, synthetic textile dye studies are increasingly necessary and important.

19世纪末，第一批合成染料的发展导致了纺织印染业的重大变革。合成染料的出现为创造新的颜色、提高牢度和消除纺织业对天然资源的依赖提供了可能性，从而提高了生产率和商业可用性。在1865年至20世纪初的工业快速扩张时期，研究合成颜料可以提供有关这一时期该行业行为的关键信息，以及使用合成颜料的人的时尚、创造力和品味。研究染色纺织品文物的一个关键工具是用科学的方法进行分析纺织品研究，以确定染料的化学成分(1-3)。从这些研究中获得的信息可以为文物是如何制作的提供证据，进而提供关于文物的历史、来源和价值的线索，以及如何最好地保存和保存文物的化学要求和历史。到目前为止，大多数研究都考虑了对用天然染料染色的文物的分析。然而，随着19世纪和20世纪初合成染色文物的遗产意义增加，提出了策展问题和保护要求，合成纺织品染料的研究变得越来越必要和重要。