Developing an Analytical Protocol for Synthetic Organic Textile Dyes for Use in Cultural Heritage Studies

19世纪后期，第一种合成染料的开发导致了纺织印染工业的重大变革。合成染料的出现为创造新颜色、提高牢度和消除纺织业对自然资源的依赖开辟了可能性，从而提高了生产力和商业可用性。在1865年至20世纪初的快速工业扩张时期研究合成颜料，可以提供有关这一时期工业行为的关键信息，以及使用它们的人的时尚、创造力和品味。研究染色纺织品的一个关键工具是用科学的方法分析纺织品，以确定染料的化学成分（1-3）。从这些研究中获得的信息可以提供关于人工制品是如何制作的证据，反过来又提供关于物品的历史、来源和价值的线索，以及如何根据其化学需求和历史最好地保存和保存人工制品。迄今为止，大多数研究都考虑对用天然染料染色的人工制品进行分析。然而，随着19世纪和20世纪初合成染色文物的遗产意义的增加，提出了策展问题和需要保护，合成纺织染料研究变得越来越必要和重要。

The development of the first synthetic dyes in the late 19th century led to a major transformation of the textile dyeing industry. The advent of synthetic dyes opened up the possibility to create new colours, improve fastness and eliminate the reliance of the textile industry on naturalresources, resulting in increased productivity and commercial availability. Studying synthetic pigments in the period of rapid industrial expansion, spanning 1865 until the early 20th century, can provide key information about the behaviours of the industry during this time, and the fashion, creativity and tastes of those who utilised them. One key tool for the study of dyed textile artefacts is analytical textile studies with scientificmethodologies to identify the chemical composition of the dyes (1-3). The information obtained from these studies can give evidence about how an artefact was made and in turn provide clues about the history, provenance and value of an object, and how best to preserve and conserve artefacts with respect to their chemical requirements and history. The majority of research to date has considered the analysis of artefacts dyed with natural dyes. However, as the heritage significance of synthetically dyed artefacts of the 19th and early 20th centuries increase, raise curatorial questions and require conservation, synthetic textile dye studies are increasingly necessary and important.