Creeping into myself: smocking, pleating, and folding as transgender orientation

潜入我自己：缩褶、打褶和折叠作为变性取向

• 批准号: 2721437
• 金额: --
• 依托单位: UNIVERSITY OF EXETER
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Studentship
• 财政年份: 2022
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2022 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 未结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2721437
• 关键词: Creeping; into; myself; smocking; pleating

The aim of this practice-based research is to explore how trans and non-binary people use a variety of textile-based practices, tools and techniques to express their identity and experiences. By considering my own process of handcrafting textile art as a way to challenge narratives of transgender bodily boundaries that are often confined to pathologized language and limiting concepts of 'trans-ness', I intend to examine where concepts of materiality connect trans studies and textile art. Within this research I will also seek to locate my work in the wider context of contemporary transgender and non-binary artists who centre or include textiles in their practice. My research questions are:- By creating work that is messy, incomplete and unordered, how does the process and outcome of my practice challenge institutional narratives on trans experiences and trans studies?- How do transgender and non-binary artists use different textile techniques, tools and practices to reflect embodied knowledge? - How does this work challenge hierarchical boundaries of textile art and traditional ideas of skill? Through practice-based research, I intend to use the process of experimentation and creation of original textile artwork to investigate and add to trans theoretical writings as well as to the wider contemporary textile field. The key topics in my research will include how textile practices can play with the removal of boundaries in terms of bodily materiality, time and space as a way to refuse identification or create new identifications, focusing on the idea that the body 'is not a shape but the construction of a shape' (Salamon, 2010: 30). Through examining ideas on queer futurity and intimacy in relation to trans experiences, I am interested in the use of textiles to subvert expectations on how time, space and power can be viewed as either a reimagining or discarding of political possibility. Situating my research within craft and textile theory, a key topic will be a wider analysis of 'sloppy art,' and how sloppiness and failure can be used as a force for destabilisation and changing conventional expectations of craft. Through researching the topics of excess, hyperbole and overperformance in crafts, I will examine whether the ability to play with dimensions allows for wider possibilities on embodiment and identity or if this reinforces stereotypes and binaries for trans artists. Viewing textile techniques alongside trans experiences of constructing the self as intertwined 'felt knowledge' (Vaccaro, 2014: 97) not only centres trans voices but also contains the potential for disrupting hierarchies of power, skill and production in these two areas. I am particularly interested in investigating the relationship between labour and craft, and the implications of devaluing bodies and their work as it relates both to trans experiences alongside ideas on the political economy of craftwork.

这项基于实践的研究旨在探索跨性别和非二元人群如何使用各种基于纺织品的实践，工具和技术来表达他们的身份和体验。通过考虑我自己手工制作纺织品艺术的过程，作为一种挑战跨性别身体界限的叙述的方式，这种界限往往局限于病态的语言和限制性的“跨性别”概念，我打算研究的重要性概念连接跨研究和纺织品艺术。在这项研究中，我也将寻求在当代跨性别和非跨性别的更广泛的背景下定位我的工作。在他们的实践中以纺织品为中心或包括纺织品的二元艺术家。我的研究问题是：-通过创造混乱，不完整和无序的工作，我的实践过程和结果如何挑战跨经验和跨研究的机构叙事？-跨性别和非二元艺术家如何使用不同的纺织技术，工具和实践来反映体现知识？- 这件作品如何挑战纺织艺术的等级界限和传统的技能观念？通过基于实践的研究，我打算利用实验和原创纺织艺术品的创作过程来调查和添加到跨理论著作以及更广泛的当代纺织领域。在我的研究的关键课题将包括纺织实践如何发挥与身体的物质性，时间和空间方面的边界作为一种拒绝识别或创建新的身份，专注于身体“不是一个形状，而是一个形状的构造”的想法（Salamon，2010：30）。通过研究与跨性别体验有关的酷儿未来和亲密关系的想法，我感兴趣的是使用纺织品来颠覆人们对时间、空间和权力如何被视为重新想象或抛弃政治可能性的期望。将我的研究置于工艺和纺织理论中，一个关键的主题将是对“草率的艺术”进行更广泛的分析，以及草率和失败如何被用作破坏稳定和改变传统工艺期望的力量。通过研究工艺品中的过度，夸张和过度表现的主题，我将研究是否能够发挥尺寸允许更广泛的可能性体现和身份，或者如果这加强了跨艺术家的刻板印象和二元性。将纺织技术与构建自我的跨性别经验视为交织在一起的“感觉知识”（Vaccaro，2014：97）不仅集中了跨性别的声音，而且还包含了破坏这两个领域的权力，技能和生产等级的潜力。我特别感兴趣的是调查劳动和手工艺之间的关系，以及贬值机构及其工作的影响，因为它涉及跨经验以及对跨行业工作的政治经济学的想法。