Considerate Design for Personalised Fashion Products

个性化时尚产品的贴心设计

• 批准号: AH/E507964/1
• 负责人: Sandy Black
• 金额: $ 29.46万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2007
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2007 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FE507964%2F1
• 关键词: Considerate; Design; Personalised; Fashion; Products

This portfolio project will develop new fashion products - one piece knitwear and fashion accessories - which integrate the craft skills of fashion making with new technologies. It will propose new design processes which will have reduced environmental impact and consider both the end user and the enture life cycle of the product. The theoratical underpinning of the project is the identification and analysis of the design process and creation of guidlines for a 'Considerate Design' model which will be tested against theories of complexity in design.The project responds to the rapidly changing context of fashion and positions the user at the centre of the design process. It aims to produce personalised fashion products using new applications of 3D body scanning linked to rapid prototyping methods to produce customised body related forms integrated with different direct manufacturing and production processes; the direct 3D production of semafree knitwear, the manufacture of bespoke bags, and creation of body conformable seamless textile structures. The sub-projects each have a relevance to industry in either the short or longer term, contributing to the concept of mass customisation, to create viable products which are individually tailored to requirements.In bespoke fashion the design input per item is far higher then in mass produced pieces. To make this a viable option designers must learn how to structure their design processes effectively and cost their design process accurately. This project will model a design process for Considerate Design using the sub-projects as sources of data to develop guidance for the considerate design procedures. The process will be modelled in the Signposting software, developed in the Cambridge EDC, which provides an opportunity to model individual procedures and assess their cost and risk. This also provides an opportunity to assess the scope of the Signposting method outside the automotive and aerospace industry.The first sub-project works with industrially made 3D knitwear. The uptake of seamfree knitwear has to date been slow in the fashion market, despite the technology having been available for a number of years. This project demonstrates how added value can be delivered through customised fit and comfort, and will contribute to the service sector of the fashion industry by developing knitwear which is more acceptable to a wider range of consumers. The materialf focus is on revisiting wool as both a sustainable fibre, and one which is versatile in response to different temperatures and seasons. The project contributes to considerate designt hrough the interaction with the user, the shortening of the supply chain by elimination of making up processes and by providing more comfortable clothing.The second sub-project integrates the philosophy and practice of craft in manufacturing bespoke functional bags (eg backpacks and computer cases) with body scanning and rapid prototyping to produce products with an exact fit to the posture and body of an individual, using specially created components and contemporary materials for both aesthetic design and functional purpose, with potential to increase longevity of use.The third project is longer term, focusing on creating new paradigms for production of seamless textile structures which conform in shape to the body. It uses no traditional textile and fashion processes, but adapts the technologies and materials from rapid prototyping of industrial products through linked structures to create flexible surfaces. This project tests new design processes for generating form through the interface of computer and human design.The results of each sub project will be disseminated through academic journals, to industry through conferences and trade fairs, and directly to the public through editorial features in magazines, and a work in progresexhibition at an appropriate venue such as the ICA in London, the Design Museum, The Hub in Leicestershire.

这个项目将开发新的时尚产品-一件式内衣和时尚配饰-将时尚制作的工艺技能与新技术相结合。它将提出新的设计流程，这些流程将减少对环境的影响，并考虑最终用户和产品的可持续生命周期。该项目的理论基础是对设计过程的识别和分析，并为“体贴设计”模型创建指导方针，该模型将根据设计复杂性理论进行测试。该项目响应快速变化的时尚环境，并将用户置于设计过程的中心。它旨在使用3D身体扫描的新应用程序生产个性化的时尚产品，该应用程序与快速原型制作方法相结合，以生产与不同直接制造和生产过程相集成的定制身体相关形式;直接3D生产无袖内衣，制造定制包，并创建身体贴合的无缝纺织结构。每个子项目在短期或长期内都与行业相关，有助于大规模定制的概念，以创建根据需求单独定制的可行产品。在定制时尚中，每个项目的设计投入远远高于大规模生产的产品。为了使这成为一个可行的选择，设计师必须学会如何有效地构建他们的设计过程，并准确地计算他们的设计过程。该项目将使用子项目作为数据源，为体贴设计建立设计过程模型，以制定体贴设计程序指南。该过程将在剑桥EDC开发的Signposting软件中进行建模，该软件提供了一个机会，可以对单个程序进行建模并评估其成本和风险。这也提供了一个机会来评估路标方法在汽车和航空航天工业之外的范围。第一个子项目与工业制造的3D服装有关。尽管这项技术已经存在了很多年，但到目前为止，无缝内衣在时尚市场上的普及速度一直很慢。该项目展示了如何通过定制的合身和舒适度来实现附加值，并将通过开发更广泛的消费者更容易接受的内衣来为时尚业的服务部门做出贡献。材料的重点是重新审视羊毛作为一种可持续纤维，以及一种应对不同温度和季节的多功能纤维。该项目通过与用户的互动，第二个子项目将工艺的理念和实践融入定制功能袋的生产中（如背包和电脑机箱）与身体扫描和快速原型制作的产品与一个人的姿势和身体的精确配合，使用特别创造的部件和当代材料，以达到美学设计和功能目的，有可能增加使用寿命。第三个项目是长期的，专注于创造新的模式，生产无缝纺织结构，形状符合身体。它不使用传统的纺织和时尚工艺，而是通过连接结构来适应工业产品快速原型的技术和材料，以创建灵活的表面。该项目测试通过计算机和人类设计的界面生成形式的新设计过程。每个子项目的结果将通过学术期刊传播，通过会议和贸易展览会向行业传播，并通过杂志的编辑功能直接向公众传播，并在适当的地点（如伦敦的伊卡，设计博物馆，莱斯特郡的The Hub）进行展览。

项目成果

Designing for the 21st Century: Interdisciplinary Methods and Findings

21 世纪的设计：跨学科方法和发现

• 发表时间: 2010
• 作者: Kennedy, H;Thomas, S;Evans, S
• 通讯作者: Evans, S

Considerate Design: supporting designers to create sustainable and personalised clothing

贴心设计：支持设计师打造可持续且个性化的服装

• 作者: Sandy Black (Author)

Process Simulation to Make Personalisation Economically Viable.

流程模拟使个性化经济可行。

• 发表时间: 2008
• 期刊: Proceedings of TMCE 2008
• 作者: Eckert CM

Handbook of Research in Mass Customization and Personalization - (In 2 Volumes)

大规模定制和个性化研究手册 -（共 2 卷）

• DOI: 10.1142/9789814280280_0041
• 发表时间: 2009
• 作者: Black S