Rethinking Fashion Design Entrepreneurship: Fostering Sustainable Practices

反思时装设计创业精神：促进可持续实践

• 批准号: AH/R006768/1
• 负责人: Sandy Black
• 金额: $ 57.55万
• 依托单位: University of the Arts London
• 依托单位国家: 英国
• 项目类别: Research Grant
• 财政年份: 2018
• 资助国家: 英国
• 起止时间: 2018 至 无数据
• 项目状态: 已结题
• 来源: https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=AH%2FR006768%2F1
• 关键词: Rethinking; Fashion; Design; Entrepreneurship; Fostering

The UK is known for its successful creative industries and its fashion designers are widely acknowledged as creative influencers on the world stage. The UK's designer fashion sector, largely made up of micro and small enterprises (MSEs), constitutes a globally recognised creative engine, effectively acting as R&D for the wider fashion industry. Design-led fashion enterprises, whilst often struggling financially themselves, provide pioneering alternative visions of prosperity in business. This project investigates the role of creative entrepreneurship and design in fashion MSEs as a potential driver for change, providing a valuable lens through which to examine the future for a sustainable fashion industry.A multi-disciplinary research team will work directly with a range of design-led fashion MSEs as co-producers of the research. The fashion designer-entrepreneur, and leaders in MSE teams, will be the focus of analysis. The research will explore sustainability as a creative endeavour, examining four key areas: design and operations; business networks and ecosystems; working practices; entrepreneurship and business models. This will lead to new knowledge and understanding of the internal operations and external context within which these fashion MSEs operate. This knowledge will be applied to establish and support new sustainable models of business development, repositioning designer fashion MSEs as major contributors to the UK's creative and sustainable economy, and ultimately informing future UK policy for the creative industries.The research will analyse existing and novel business models and practices that foster sustainable prosperity, a concept aiming to balance environmental, social, cultural and economic considerations. We will identify barriers and points of intervention in order to develop alternative business support mechanisms for sustainability to inform fashion businesses at both small and larger scales. To meet this complex challenge, the academic team is drawn from three leading research centres and universities, whose complementary academic expertise will provide a novel cross-disciplinary approach to research in fashion innovation and sustainable prosperity. Led by London College of Fashion (LCF) at University of the Arts London (UAL), the project is a collaboration between UAL's Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF), Middlesex University's (MU) Centre for Enterprise and Economic Development Research (CEEDR) and the Open University's (OU) Department of Design. CEEDR is a key partner in Surrey University's Centre for Understanding of Sustainable Prosperity (CUSP). To maximize the impact of the project directly on the fashion sector, the research team will work closely with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), a fashion business incubator based at LCF (est. 2003); the British Fashion Council (BFC), the UK industry body responsible for promoting international sales of designer fashion; and the Ethical Fashion Forum (est. 2005), an alternative sourcing platform for international fashion MSEs working with sustainability. The research team will also work with a group of 20 designer fashion MSEs who want to engage with sustainability practices. Four key project partners will provide current examples of different business models incorporating sustainability: Unmade, Christopher Raeburn, Martine Jarlgaard and RizBoardshorts. These four MSE partners will engage with the research team in knowledge exchange and evaluation throughout the entire project. Outputs will include: case studies, academic journal articles, key findings report, and policy briefing note. In addition, a business support for sustainability 'toolkit' will provide new guidance for both emerging and established business support and incubator organisations (eg. CFE, BFC, Fashion in Leeds initiative) to foster more sustainable fashion practices.

英国以其成功的创意产业而闻名，其时尚设计师在世界舞台上被公认为具有创意影响力的人。英国的设计师时装行业主要由微型和小型企业(MSE)组成，构成了全球公认的创意引擎，有效地充当了更广泛的时尚业的研发。以设计为主导的时尚企业，虽然自己经常在财务上苦苦挣扎，但它们提供了商业繁荣的开创性替代愿景。这个项目调查了创意创业和设计在时尚中小企业中的作用，作为变革的潜在推动力，提供了一个宝贵的视角，通过它来审视一个可持续的时尚行业的未来。一个多学科的研究团队将直接与一系列以设计为主导的时尚中小企业合作，作为研究的联合生产者。服装设计师兼企业家以及MSE团队的领导者将成为分析的重点。这项研究将探索可持续发展作为一项创造性的努力，审查四个关键领域：设计和运营；商业网络和生态系统；工作做法；创业和商业模式。这将导致对这些时尚中小企业的内部运营和外部环境的新认识和理解。这些知识将被用于建立和支持新的可持续商业发展模式，将设计师时尚中小企业重新定位为英国创意和可持续经济的主要贡献者，并最终为英国未来的创意产业政策提供参考。研究将分析现有的和新的商业模式和实践，以促进可持续繁荣，这一概念旨在平衡环境、社会、文化和经济因素。我们将确定障碍和干预点，以开发可持续发展的替代商业支持机制，为小规模和较大规模的时尚企业提供信息。为了迎接这一复杂的挑战，学术团队来自三个领先的研究中心和大学，它们相互补充的学术专长将为时尚创新和可持续繁荣的研究提供一种新的跨学科方法。该项目由伦敦艺术大学(UAL)伦敦时装学院(LCF)牵头，由UAL可持续时尚中心(CSF)、米德尔塞克斯大学(MU)企业与经济发展研究中心(CEEDR)和开放大学(OU)设计系合作完成。CEEDR是萨里大学可持续繁荣理解中心(CUSP)的重要合作伙伴。为了最大限度地扩大该项目对时尚行业的直接影响，研究小组将与时尚企业中心(CFE)密切合作，CFE是位于LCF(EST)的时尚企业孵化器。2003年)；英国时装协会(BFC)，英国负责促进设计师时装国际销售的行业机构；以及道德时尚论坛(EST。2005)，这是一个为致力于可持续发展的国际时尚中小企业提供替代采购平台。研究团队还将与20名希望从事可持续发展实践的设计师时尚中小企业合作。四个关键的项目合作伙伴将提供结合可持续发展的不同商业模式的最新范例：UnMade、Christopher Raeburn、Martin Jarlgaard和RizBoardShort。这四个MSE合作伙伴将在整个项目中与研究团队进行知识交流和评估。产出将包括：案例研究、学术期刊文章、主要调查结果报告和政策简报。此外，可持续发展的企业支持“工具包”将为新兴和老牌企业支持和孵化器组织提供新的指导(例如。CFE，BFC，时尚在利兹倡议)，以促进更可持续的时尚实践。

项目成果

Advancing the circular economy through dynamic capabilities and extended customer engagement: Insights from small sustainable fashion enterprises in the UK

通过动态能力和扩大客户参与推进循环经济：英国小型可持续时尚企业的见解

• DOI: 10.1002/bse.2999
• 发表时间: 2022
• 期刊: Business Strategy and the Environment
• 影响因子: 13.4
• 作者: Elf P

Fostering Sustainable Practices: The Case of Micro & Small Designer Fashion Enterprises

促进可持续实践：微观案例

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Black S

The role of networks in supporting micro- and small-sized sustainable fashion businesses

网络在支持微型和小型可持续时尚企业中的作用

• DOI: 10.1080/15487733.2022.2097772
• 发表时间: 2022
• 期刊: Science, Practice and Policy
• 作者: Eckert C

Accelerating Sustainability in Fashion, Clothing and Textiles

加速时尚、服装和纺织品的可持续发展

• DOI: 10.4324/9781003272878-12
• 发表时间: 2023
• 作者: Black S

Fashion as Sustainability in Action

时尚作为可持续发展的实际行动

• 发表时间: 2021
• 作者: Centre For Sustainable Fashion UAL