Irregular Wave Reflection, Runup and Armor Movement on RoughPermeable Slopes of Breakwaters and Revetments

一个理论模型，和波浪水槽中的实验模拟， 将被构造并应用于波浪爬高问题， 破坏防波堤。 一个先前的数值模型， 研究者将扩展到包括孔隙度的影响 在形成装甲的碎石材料下面的介质中 的防波堤。 此外，入射波列将是 一般是不规则的而不是周期性的。 波浪爬高统计和反射波，以及损坏和 将确定防波堤剖面的变化。

A theoretical model, and experimental simulations in a wave tank, will be constructed and applied to the problem of wave run-up and damage on breakwaters. A prior numerical model developed by this investigator will be extended to include the effect of porosity in the medium beneath the rubble material which forms the armor of the breakwater. Further, the incident train of waves will be generalized to be irregular rather than periodic. Wave run-up statistics and reflected waves, as well as damage and breakwater profile changes will be determined.