Breaking Wave Velocities and Shear Stress in Surf and Swash Zone

特拉华大学p.p.i: N. Kobayashi将采取一种结合模型和实验的方法来帮助理解海滩侵蚀。将建立一个水动力模型来预测破碎波速度、剪切应力和激流带湍流强度的时空变化。实验将在波浪水槽中进行，在波浪水槽中测量粗糙底部薄底边界层中的流体速度。海浪区的湍流测量将用于阐明海浪区的湍流产生、平流、扩散和耗散过程，以及校正和评估数值研究中采用的湍流模型。速度和自由表面测量将用于评估所开发的数值模型在预测规则波和不规则波破碎时流体速度和剪切应力的时空变化方面的能力和局限性。

ABSTRACT CTS-9407827 University of Delaware P.I.: N. Kobayashi A combined modeling and experimental approach to assist in the understanding of beach erosion will be undertaken. A hydrodynamic model will be developed to predict the spatial and temporal variations of breaking wave velocities, shear stress and turbulence intensity in the surf and swash zones. Experiments will be conducted in a wave flume in which the fluid velocities in the thin bottom boundary layer on a rough bottom will be measured. Turbulence measurements in the surf zone will be used to elucidate the processes of the turbulence generation, advection, diffusion and dissipation in the surf zone as well as to calibrate and evaluate the turbulence model adopted in the numerical studies. Velocity and free surface measurements will be used to evaluate the capabilities and limitations of the developed numerical model for predicting the spatial and temporal variations of fluid velocities and shear stress under breaking regular and irregular waves.