Collaborative Research: Nearshore Canyon Experiment

主题：Elgar/Herbers/Guza摘要提供资金用于开发、测试和改进在陡峭近岸地形存在下由波浪传播和波浪破碎驱动的环流模型。 这些将使用从加州的两个近海峡谷现场收集的数据进行测试。 具体目标包括：确定表面重力波如何在复杂的内陆架地形上传播，确定水深测量引起的波场沿岸变化如何影响变浅、破碎和近岸环流，并确定在存在陡峭地形的情况下碎波带和内陆架之间的质量交换特征。 外大陆架和中大陆架上的四个乘波浮标将为模型提供离岸波浪边界条件，并表征外大陆架上的折射。 陆架中部的压力单元将识别来自斯克里普斯峡谷的反射波。 内大陆架上方的PUV（压力和速度传感器）和声学多普勒海流剖面仪（ADCP）将确定内大陆架和碎波区环流和波场的特征。 将部署和跟踪漂流者。 将比较中波和低波情况，以尝试在没有波浪强迫的情况下隔离由峡谷引起的流动。 浮标、压力传感器和PUV将提供方向波谱演变的估计值，以便与模型输出进行比较。 将把包括NOPP群落模型在内的各种内大陆架模型与实地数据进行比较。

Subject: Elgar/Herbers/Guza abstractFunds are provided for development, testing, and improvement of circulation models driven by wave propagation and wave-breaking in the presence of abrupt nearshore topography. These will be tested using data collected from a California field site with two offshore canyons. Specific objectives include: determining how surface gravity waves propagate across a complex inner shelf topography, determining how bathymetrically-induced alongshore variations of the wave field affect shoaling, breaking, and nearshore circulation, and determining the characteristics of mass exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf in the presence of abrupt topography. Four waverider buoys over the outer and mid shelf will provide offshore wave boundary conditions for the models and characterize the refraction over the outer shelf. Pressure cells at mid shelf will identify reflected waves from Scripps Canyon. PUVs (pressure and velocity sensors) and acoustic doppler current profilers (ADCPs) over the inner shelf will characterize inner shelf and surf zone circulation and wave fields. Drifters will be deployed and tracked. Moderate wave and low wave situations will be compared in an attempt to isolate flows induced by the canyon in the absence of wave forcing. The buoys, pressure cells, and PUVs will provide estimates of the evolution of the directional wave spectrum for comparison with model output. Various inner shelf models, including the NOPP community model, will be compared to the field data.