Creating and composing ice cream in the transition from 18th to 19th century. Cultures of knowledge and gustatory pleasure between courts and middle-class housholds.

该研究项目考察了1750年至1850年间冰淇淋的生产、准备、呈现和乐趣。它询问知识和区别的做法的转移，这是在创作，舞台和这种甜点的快乐消费中铭刻的。这项研究包括五个不同的线索，指的是冰淇淋作为一种手段的社会，文化，手工和感官的区别。首先，本研究反思跨区域欧洲男爵贵族饮食文化的差异模式，并检视中产阶级餐桌文化的采纳与挪用模式。其次，该提案概述了厨师和冷冻甜点和冰淇淋制作者的艺术知识，以及这些专家如何跨区域和跨国地获取、分享和传播这种知识。项目的第三个主题是探讨不断发展的公民阅读和媒体社会，研究烹饪书和收据集的出版过程、分发、接受以及与吃甜点有关的知识的普及。这与味觉知识和感官体验有关，正如让·安泰尔姆·布里拉-萨瓦林（Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin，1825）所概述的那样，他还从宫廷厨房及其糕点作坊的职员汇编的库存、菜单和消费记录中，以及从贵族和中产阶级的贵族和贵族的自传和私人信件中获得了额外的经验数据。研究的第五个核心是冰淇淋的物质性和质地随着时间的推移从冷冻状态转变为融化状态。在这一点上，物质文化触及了感官历史。

The research project examines the production, preparation, presentation and the pleasure of ice cream between 1750 and 1850. It enquires transfers of knowledge and practices of distinction, that are inscribed in the creation, the staging and the joyful consumption of this dessert. The study comprises five different threads that refer to ice cream as a means of social, cultural, manual and sensory distinction. Firstly, the project reflects on the modes of distinction in the eating culture of transregional european baronial aristocracy and examines the modes of adoption and appropriation in middle-class dining and table culture. Secondly, the proposal outlines the artistic knowledge of cooks and confectioners regarding frozen dessert and ice cream and the ways these experts are securing, sharing and propagating this knowledge transregionally and transnationally. The third thread of the project looks into the evolving civic reading and media society when examining the publishing process of cookbooks and receipt collections, its distribution, reception and the popularization of knowledge related to eating dessert. This connects to gustatory knowledge and sensory experience as Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1825) has outlined with additional empirical data derived from inventories, menu lists and registers of consumption that have been compiled by clerks of courtly kitchens and its pastry workshops and from autobiographical accounts and personal letters of aristocratic and middle-class gourmands and gourmandes. The fifth core of research is the materiality and texture of ice cream shifting over time from frozen to melted condition. At this point material culture touches sensory history.