DEVELOPMENT OF NUMERICAL ANALYSIS METHOD AND INTERNAL MECHANISM OF BREAKING WAVE ON ARBITRARY BOUNDARY SHAPE CONDITION

本研究明确了破波的内部机制，提出了破波过程中涡流和湍流引起的能量耗散的数值模型，并建立了任意边界条件下波浪变形和破波的数值分析系统。实验研究进行了坡面进行波和水下防波堤作用下的破波、直墙前驻波作用下的破波、管道破波力等多种类型的实验。根据实验数据计算了涡流、湍流、雷诺应力-应变等参数的变化，并研究了它们在时间和空间上的分布。从这些实验结果可以清楚地看出，破碎波过程中的能量耗散受普朗特型雷诺应力和加速度项随时间变化的雷诺应变的影响。理论研究由于破碎波现象是粘性流体的严重非线性非定常问题，我们采用s m a c方法对破碎波过程进行了更精确的计算。作为一种快速的计算条件，利用作者开发的ffe - m方法，在改进的s - m - a - c方法的基础上，对波浪的破碎过程进行了模拟分析，以考察破碎波内部的物理量。建立了破碎波能量耗散的数值模型，该模型是由水块激流和破碎水中湍流引起的。该模型较好地模拟了波浪的破碎过程。

THIS RESEARCH HAS TAKEN TO CLEAR THE INTERNAL MECHANISM OF BREAKING WAVE, AND TO PRESENT THE NUMERICAL MODEL OF ENERGY DISSIPATION CAUSED BY VOLTEX AND TURBULENCE IN WAVE BREAKING PROCESS, AND TO DEVELOP THE NUMERICAL ANALYSIS SYSTEM OF WAVE DEFORMATION AND BREAKING WAVE ON ARBITRARY BOUNDARY CONDITION.1. EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCHWE DID MANY TYPE EXPERIMENT OF BREAKING WAVE SUBJECTED TO A PROGRESSIVE WAVE ON SLOPE AND A SUBMERGED BREAKWATER, A STANDING WAVE IN FRONT OF VERTICAL WALL AND BREAKING WAVE FORCE OF A PIPE. VARIATION OF VOLTEX, TURBULENCE, REYNOLDS STRESS-STRAIN AND OTHERS WERE CALCULATED FROM EXPERIMENTAL DATAS AND THERE'S DISTRIBUTION IN TIME AND SPACE WERE INVESTIGATED. FROM THESE EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS, IT BECAME CLEAR THAT THE ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKING WAVE PROCESS IS SUBJECTED TO REYNOLDS STRESS OF PRANDTL TYPE AND TIME-DEPENDENT REYNOLDS STRAIN AS TO ACCELERATION TERM.2. THEORITICAL RESEARCHWE APPLIED S M A C METHOD FOR MORE EXACT CALCULATION OF BREAKING WAVE PROCESS, BECAUSE THIS BREAKING WAVE PHENOMENON IS A HEAVY NONLINEAR AND UNSTEADY PROBLEM OF VISCOUS FLUID. AS A FAST CONDITION OF CALCULATION, USING F E M DEVELOPED BY AUTHOR, SIMULATION ANALYSIS OF THE BREAKING PROCESS OF WAVES WAS PERFORMED ON THE BASIS OF THE MODIFIED S M A C METHOD IN ORDER TO EXAMINE THE PHYSICAL QUANTITIES INSIDE THE BREAKING WAVES. AN NUMERICAL MODEL OF ENERGY DISSIPATION OF THE BREAKING WAVE WAS SET UP, WHICH WAS CAUSED BY RUSH OF WATER BLOCK AND TURBULENCE IN BREAKING WATER. THIS MODEL SIMULATES THE BREAKING PROCESS OF WAVES IN GOOD AGREEMENT.