ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF NUMERICAL ANALYSIS METHOD OF WAVE DEFORMATION AND BREAKING WAVE ON BEACH

本研究将破波的变形过程与斜坡上的内在机制联系起来，是建立从变形到破波现象的数值方法的一部分.理论研究（1）.本文提出了研究斜坡上破碎波的数值分析模型，明确了有限元分析方法，用Prandtl型雷诺应力估算了破碎波的能量弥散，并采用了连续性方程中包含有破碎波随连续气泡产生的顶压的方法，与实验结果进行了比较。我们知道波高与坡度和陡度的对应关系是一个很好的计算协议。(2)由于波浪是非线性的，不稳定的，为了更精确地计算破波现象，我们采用了SMAC方法，并对SMAC方法作了改进，使SMAC方法能计算波浪后的扰动机制 ...更多信息 本计算系统采用的是经修正后的有限元计算结果，计算结果与实验结果吻合较好，并对波浪和波浪的破碎进行了定量计算。（三）、本文将基于混合长度理论的紊流控制方程的直接有限元分析方法推广到波浪边界层问题，定量地说明了波浪有限振幅和惯性传递项的影响，并将能量色散引入到VOTEX方程的一个问题中，该方法用于计算波浪起伏沙床上的紊流边界层，计算了扰动机制的性质，数值计算结果与实验结果吻合较好.实验研究我们在斜坡上做了一个破碎波变形过程的实验。我们拍摄了一段视频，建立了一个图像分析系统，对一个内量进行了分析，得到了与数值分析相比较的数据，研究了破碎波变形与各量变化的关系。少

THIS RESEARCH HAS TAKEN THE DEFORMATION PROCESS OF BREAKING WAVE IN RELATION TO INNER MECHANISM ON THE SLOPE AND IS THE PURPOSE OF ESTABLISHMENT OF NUMERICAL METHOD FORMED A PART OF PHENOMENON FROM DEFORMATION TO BREAKING WAVE.1. THEORETICAL RESEARCH (1). IT IS PRESENTED THE NUMERICAL ANALYSIS MODEL IN CONNECTION WITH STUDY THE BREAKING WAVE ON THE SLOPE AND MAKES A CLEAR THE ANALYSIS METHOD BY FINITE ELEMENT.WE ESTIMATE THE ENERGY DISPERSION OF BREAKING WAVE WITH REYNOLDS STRESS OF PRANDTL TYPE,IN ADDITION WEWE TAKE A METHOD IN CONTINUTY EQUATION INCLUDED AN AIT PRESSURE THAT THE BREAKING WAVE COMES WITH AN CONTINUOUS AIR BUBBLE.IN COM-PARISON WITH EXPERIMENT,WE KNOWN A GOOD CALCULATIVE AGREEMENT THAT THE WAVE HEIGHT CORRESPONDS TO SLOPE GRADIENT AND STEEPNESS. (2) WE APPLIED A SMAC METHOD FOR MORE EXACT CALCULATION THROUGH BREAKING WAVE PHENOMENON,BECAUSE THERE IS A NONLINEAR AND UNSTANDING WAVE.WE MODIFIED SMAC METHOD,SO THE PRESENT SMAC METHOD CAN CAL-CULATE A DISTURB MECHANISM AFT … More ER BREAKING WAVE.THIS CALCULATION SYSTEM USE A F.E.M RESULT DEVELOPED BY AUTHOR.THE CALCULATED RESULT GOOD AGREE WITH AN EXPERIMENTAL RESULT,WE DID A QUANTITATIVE CALCUL-ATION ABOUT BREAKING WAVE AND VOTEX. (3). WE DEVELOPED THE METHOD TO ANALYZE DIRECT F.E.M FOR CONTROL EQUATION OF TURBULENT FLOW ON BASE OF MIXTURE LENGTH THEORY TO PROBLEM OF THE WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER,WHICH EVALUATED QUANTITATIVELY THE EFFECT OF WAVE FINITE AMPLITUDE AND INERTIA TRANSFER TERM.NEXT,WE DEVELOPED F.E.M METHOD TO INTRODU-CE ENERGY DISPERSION AN OBJECT OF VOTEX EQUATION.THIS METHOD USED A CALCULATION THE TURBULENT BOUND-ARY LAYER ON THE RIPPLED SAND BEDS,WHICH CALCULATED THE PROPERTY OF DISTURB MECHANISM,THERE IS A GOOD AGREE BETWEEN NUMERICAL METHOD RESULT AND EXPERIMENTAL RESULT.2. EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH WE DID EXPERIMENT AN OBJECT OF BREAKING WAVE DEFORMATION PROCESS ON THE SLOPE. WE TAKE A VIDEO,EST-ALISH A PORTRAIT ANALYSIS SYSTEM,ANALYZE A INNER QUANTITY AND GET A COMPARATIVE DATA IN COMPARISON TO NUMERICAL ANALYSIS.WE INVESIGATE BREAKING WAVE DEFORMATION IN RELATION TO TRANSITION OF ALL QUAN-TITY. Less