Development of Bodice Pattern Design system for each individual by Computer

我们将尝试用电脑设计出每个人体型的服装图案。图案制作的核心问题是在二维平面上利用布面在三维空间上构造一个人体曲线形状。因此，对人体和服装发育模式的缺陷因素进行了研究。在身体和衣服的发达模式上，它表现为身体测量线上的间隙长度。而在三维人体曲面和服装上，则被理解为曲率（亏角）。对50只雌性幼体的前躯干发育间隙长度和胸衣图案进行定量了解，并根据其数值把握躯干和胸衣形状的特征。利用平面几何方程计算出的缺口长度，可以在不悬垂的情况下绘制60名年轻女性的前胸图案。用高斯曲率定义了三维体面的可展性和凸壳体面的可展性。如果一个曲面上任意点的高斯曲率（亏角=2）仅为零，则称该曲面为平面，且可展为平面。在曲面上，它不为零。曲面内的高斯曲率和边界曲线上的测地线曲率这两个积分值的和等于2 π与欧拉数的乘积。在110只年轻雌性中，躯干表面和上身的两个曲率之和为相同的值（-2*2pi）。将躯干和胸衣表面的特征作为两种曲率的交换，并显示了它们不同曲率的颜色模拟。覆盖躯干的紧身胸衣将在三维空间上设计，没有悬垂，而是由计算机设计。当然，我们可以用计算机制作出它们的显影图案。

We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Terefore, the defeciency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated. On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines. And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle).In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the front trunk development and the bodice pattern were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were caluculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature. If only Gaussian curvature (deficiency angle=2pi-rheta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that is'nt zero. Sum of two integrated values, Gaussian curvature inside a surface and geodesic curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. In one hundred and ten young female, the sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and bodice was the same value (-2*2pi). The feature of those trunk and the bodice surfaces was grasped as the exchange of the two curvatures, and the color simulations by the difrent curvatures of them were displayd. The bodice with coverd the trunk would be desined on the three dimensions, without the draping but by the computer. Of course, we could made their developed pattern by the computer.