CLOTHING PATTERN PLANNING THROUGH SHAPE ANALYSIS OF LOWER TRUNK

当开发一种新的概念来制作适合个人身体的服装模式时，或者当考虑一种基本模式来生产不同身材的成衣时，有必要了解人体的形状变化如何出现在表面发展中，以及人体如何被分类为特征化的身体群体。在对人体下半身进行几何建模的基础上，建立了一个能反映人体被服装覆盖及其表面发展的包络模型。主要结果如下：（1）从下树干的四个水平横截面图中提取的下树干形状特征导致包络面发展的特定特征，即，发展中所包含的所谓“飞镖”的长度、面积和位置的变化。(2)利用包络面展开的“省道”特征，提出了直筒裙纸样制作的新概念，并对新的直筒裙纸样进行了穿着试验。结果表明，新的裙型充分考虑了体型的基本特征，适用于体型变化较大的低位树干。

When developing a new concept for making dress patterns to suit individual bodies, or when considering a basic pattern to produce ready-made clothes for dissimilar figures, it is necessary to understand how shape variation of human body will appear on the surface development, and how human bodies are classified into characterized physical groups. In this study an envelop model, which represent the body covered with garment and its surface development was formed after geometrical model of the lower trunk of the human body. The principal results were as follows ;(1) Lower trunk shape characteristics, extracted from four horizontal cross-section figures of the lower trunk, caused specific features on the envelop surface development, i.e., the variations of the length, area and position of the so called "darts" contained in the development.(2) New concept for making dress pattern of straight skirt was developed using features of the "darts" on the envelop surface development Some experimental wearing tests were utilized using new straight skirt pattern. The results indicated that new skirt pattern which considered essential characteristics of the shape fitted easy and well for lower trunks that varies greatly in shape and size.