Feasibility study to test the sensitivity of objective inspection techniques for measuring the finish on woven cashmere fabrics

“该项目是一项可行性研究，旨在测试用于测量机织羊绒织物光洁度的尖端检测技术的灵敏度；具体来说，是织物的凸起和把手。该项目将通过埃尔金约翰斯顿大学和国家物理实验室（NPL）之间的合作来推动。该项目的目的是建立一种新技术，实现约翰斯顿编织羊绒织物的把手和凸起的客观标准化测量。Johnstons of Elgin以植根于传统和工艺的价值主张进行竞争。因此，产品光洁度的测量一直依赖于整理专家的主观评价。然而，由于不断变化的客户需求和来自全球竞争对手的生产力压力，织物整理质量属性测量的一致性和准确性对企业的生存和扩张越来越重要。这反过来又推动了约翰斯顿引入客观手段来检查织物的光洁度的需求。因此，本项目将研究激光散射、三维测量和其他体积测量等检测技术在机织羊绒中的新应用，并尝试设计和建造一种新的接触式测量仪器，用于凸起和处理测量。目的是分析这些技术的应用结果与约翰斯顿最有经验的织物质量检查员所做的评估结果之间的现有相关性。对传统工艺纺织品的分析技术的探索有可能成为我们业务和市场的颠覆性创新。约翰斯顿生产的各种编织结构和织物整理，以及羊绒纤维特征的微妙变化，进一步使这成为一个复杂但令人兴奋的挑战。因此，重点将放在解决方案和测量技术上，这些解决方案和测量技术足够强大，以适应我们的织物整理和纤维混纺系列。”

"This project is a feasibility study to test the sensitivity of cutting-edge inspection techniques for measuring the finish on woven cashmere fabrics; specifically, the fabric's raise and handle. The project will be driven through collaborative work between Johnstons of Elgin and the National Physical Laboratories (NPL). The aim of the project is to establish a novel technique that achieves objective standardised measurement of the handle and raise on Johnstons' woven cashmere fabrics.Johnstons of Elgin competes with a value proposition rooted in tradition and craftsmanship. Consequently, the measurement of product finish has always depended on subjective assessment of the finishing experts. Increasingly however, the consistency and accuracy in the measurement of the quality attributes of the fabric's finish is critical to the survival and expansion of the business, due to changing customer demands and productivity pressures from global competitors.This in-turn is fuelling the need for Johnstons' to introduce objective means of inspecting its fabric's finish. Hence, this project will investigate novel applications to woven cashmere of inspection techniques like laser scattering, 3D measurements and other volumetric measurements as well as attempt the design and construction of a new contacting measuring instrument for raise and handle measurement. With the aim of analysing the existing correlations between the results of the application of these techniques and those of the assessments made by the most experienced fabric quality inspectors within Johnstons.The exploration of these techniques for analysing traditionally craft-based textiles has every potential to be a disruptive innovation in our business and market. The very wide range of weave structures and fabric finishes produced at Johnstons as well as the subtle variations that is characteristic of the cashmere fibre, further makes this a complex, yet exciting challenge. As such, emphasis will be placed on solutions and measurement techniques that are robust enough to accommodate our range of fabric finish and fibre blends."