Addressing Alice: The Emergence of a Style Icon, 1865-1890

自1865年刘易斯·卡罗尔的《爱丽丝漫游仙境》首次出版以来，已经过去了近150年。然而，最近被称为爱丽丝的“魅力”在世界各地的各个领域都有增无减。她出现在书中，继续被广泛阅读、研究、研究，并适应各种不同的媒体。此外，还有许许多多的人--老少咸宜、举世闻名和默默无闻--为她设计服装，穿着她喜欢的衣服。因此，她构成了一个考察时尚和小说之间相互联系的理想案例。这个项目探索了爱丽丝在书中的许多不同的着装方式，以及卡罗尔一生中制作的从墙纸到饼干罐头的广泛的相关文章。它还追溯了爱丽丝作为一个角色的收养，在戏剧改编的故事(专业和业余)的背景下，以及在那个时期非常流行的化妆舞会和派对上，真实的孩子们体现了这一点。因此，爱丽丝既被置于文学和艺术的语境中，与作家、插画家、表演者和剧作家有关，也被置于普通儿童的日常经历和活动中，从而洞察到文学作品在年轻读者生活中的涟漪效应。通过其创新的基于服装的方法，该项目旨在为正在进行的关于爱丽丝角色的批判性辩论做出贡献，并将这个角色的形象如此牢固地固定下来，将其背景化、历史化，从而使其变得陌生。它以前所未有的细节追溯了她视觉身份的演变，准确地指出了特定特征的出现，例如她与蓝色的联系，以及更广泛的她的象似性。它从一开始就引起了人们对她的多样性的关注，它挑战了人们对她在20世纪初视觉身份激增的批评观点。该项目不仅关注插图、物质文化和专业改编中的服装，还关注业余作品和奇装异服，从而将对爱丽丝书籍的接受、传播和演变的研究扩展到更广泛的世界--不仅在英国，也超越了文本。对十九世纪爱丽丝的更详细的理解为以后的研究及其相关媒介的研究提供了基础，并考察了不同的文化背景。但该项目也旨在为卡罗尔专家以外的学者开辟可能的途径和方法，将服装纳入儿童文学研究人员的范围，将童年领域纳入时尚(/小说)学者的领域。此外，至关重要的是，该项目的方法侧重于服装，并结合了各种来源材料，特别是与明显未被研究的化装形式有关的材料，将具有显著的可转移性，可以用来绘制任何角色跨越时间和空间的来世。该项目将涉及对Alice语料库的仔细阅读和广泛的档案研究，主要是在伦敦与RA一起进行的。此外，为了更好地理解将爱丽丝的2-D插图转换成3维的过程，我将与一名裁剪师密切合作，制作一件展示用的服装。在2015年《爱丽丝梦游仙境》首次出版150周年之际，与V&A儿童博物馆和刘易斯·卡罗尔协会的合作将产生更多的成果和活动(展览和研讨会)。

It is almost 150 years since the first publication of Lewis Carroll's 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' in 1865. Yet what has recently been referred to as the 'allure' of Alice goes on unabated in diverse spheres across the world. The books in which she appears continue to be widely read, studied, researched and adapted to an eclectic range of media. In addition, a vast array of people - young and old, world-famous and unknown - design clothes for her, wear clothes which she adorns and dress like her. As such, she constitutes an ideal case for an examination of the interconnections between fashion and fiction. This project explores the many different ways in which Alice was dressed in the books themselves and in the wide array of related articles, from wallpaper to biscuits tins, produced in Carroll's lifetime. It also traces the adoption of Alice as a character to be embodied by real children in the context of dramatic adaptations of the stories (professional and amateur) and also in the hugely popular fancy dress balls and parties of the period. Alice is thus placed within both a literary and artistic context, in relation to writers, illustrators, performers and playwrights, but also in the everyday experiences and activities of ordinary children, providing insight into the ripple effect of literary works in the lives of young readers. Through its innovative dress-based approach, the project aims to contribute to ongoing critical debates about Alice's character and to contextualise, historicise and thereby defamiliarise a character whose image is now so firmly fixed. It traces the evolution of her visual identity in unprecedented detail, pinpointing the emergence of specific features, such as her association with the colour blue, and of her iconicity more generally. Drawing attention to her multiplicity from the first, it challenges received critical ideas which have placed the proliferation of her visual identity in the early twentieth century. By focusing on dress not only in illustration, material culture and professional adaptation, but also in amateur productions and fancy dress, the project will extend study of the reception, transmission and evolution of the Alice books into the wider world - both beyond the UK, and beyond the textual. A more detailed understanding of Alice in the nineteenth century provides the foundations for studies moving into later periods and their associated media, and examining alternative cultural contexts. But the project also aims to open up possible avenues and approaches for academics other than Carroll specialists, bringing dress within the purview of children's literature researchers and the realm of childhood within that of fashion(/fiction) scholars. Crucially, in addition, the project's methodology which focuses on dress and combines a diverse range of source materials, especially relating to the distinctly understudied form of fancy dress, will be eminently transferable and can be used to chart the afterlife of any character across time and space. The project will involve close-reading of the Alice corpus and extensive archival research, predominantly undertaken in London in conjunction with a RA. In addition, I will work closely with a pattern cutter to produce a garment for display in order to better understand the processes involved in transferring a 2-d illustration of Alice into 3 dimensions. Collaborations with project partners, the V&A Museum of Childhood and the Lewis Carroll Society, will produce further outputs and activities (an exhibition and symposium) coinciding with the 150th anniversary of the first publication of 'Alice's Adventures in Wonderland' in 2015.