Negotiating the Modernity Crisis: Globalization, economic gain and the loss of traditional and sustainable food practices in Turkey

全球化的粮食系统，看似有利于国际社会，但也带来了许多潜在的危险，特别是对发展中国家而言。中低收入国家渴望实现现代化并进入全球经济，这导致当地和传统的食物来源丧失，取而代之的是进口和加工食品。然而，这些传统做法是我们获得安全、可持续和营养食品供应的最大希望，因为它们比购买的替代品更健康，更气候友好。土耳其作为低收入国家，面临两大挑战。第一个是避免滑入一个完全全球化的粮食体系，从而消除传统的粮食做法。日益增长的城市化和对农业的新自由主义态度已经大大改变了粮食获取和消费做法。不健康的西式快餐店越来越多。在土耳其，妇女是家庭的核心;食品加工和烹饪几乎完全属于妇女的领域。第二个挑战是与现代化进行持续的斗争，即找到一个解决方案，以满足继续实践传统饮食方式同时实现现代化的愿望，这一斗争与越来越多的女性进入劳动力市场特别相关。该项目是皇家霍洛威（英国）和科洛威大学（土耳其）之间的合作项目，解决联合国可持续发展目标5的关键组成部分第11项（可持续社区）和第12项（负责任的生产和消费）。该项目旨在通过研究马尼萨省可持续饮食方式的动态，特别是通过探索古老和传统的饮食和加工做法，阐明土耳其面临的挑战并找到解决方案。作为考古学家，我们利用食物的遗产，将对过去的深刻了解带入现在。利用来自Kaymakçi和Sardis两个考古遗址的考古植物学（古代植物）数据，我们探索了4000多年来人们在该地区持续生产食物的方式。在这方面，过去的做法可以提供一条通往更可持续的未来的道路;人们可以从应对大规模文化、宗教和气候变化的方式中吸取宝贵的经验教训。考古植物学研究的培训和教育旨在加强土耳其考古学中这一代表性不足的学科，并提供新的就业机会，特别是为妇女提供就业机会。我们还寻求更广泛地了解当代社区如何改变他们的做法，因为土耳其目前的LMIC地位所面临的挑战。在与农村和城市Manisa社区成员的合作和能力建设研讨会上，我们将进行双向对话。参与者将烹饪传统食物，并讨论他们自己的经验和解决方案与现代化的斗争，而我们将讨论我们的考古植物学发现，目的是连接过去和现在的景观。我们的研究成果将通过传统的学术方法和一系列面向公众的活动进行传播。我们的考古植物学发现，在同行评议的文章和开放获取数据库将作出重大贡献，土耳其考古植物学研究和古代食物更广泛。我们将把我们的考古工作与工作坊数据结合起来，在伊斯坦布尔举办一个免费展览，并制作一本烹饪书（硬拷贝和免费PDF下载）。游客调查将创建一个参与反馈循环，让游客表达自己对不断变化的食物景观的体验。以马尼萨和伊斯坦布尔为案例研究，我们希望扩大我们的研究结果，帮助土耳其和其他中低收入国家找到可持续性、粮食安全和全球化之间的必要媒介。

A globalized food system, seemingly of international benefit, poses many hidden dangers, particularly for developing countries. A desire within LMICs to modernize and enter the global economy has resulted in the loss of local and traditional foodways, instead replaced by imported and processed items. However, these traditional practices are our best hope for a secure, sustainable and nutritious food supply as they are healthier and more climate-friendly than the purchased alternative. Turkey, as a LMIC, faces two major challenges. The first is avoiding a slide into a fully globalized food system whereby traditional food practices are eliminated. Increasing urbanization and a neoliberal attitude to agriculture has already significantly altered food acquisition and consumption practices. Unhealthy western fast food outlets are an ever-increasing sight. In Turkey women are the crux of the home; food processing and cooking belong almost exclusively to the female realm. The second challenge is to negotiate an ongoing struggle with modernity, namely finding a solution to the desire to continue to practice traditional foodways yet simultaneously modernize, a struggle particularly pertinent for women as they increasingly enter the work force.The project, a collaboration between Royal Holloway (UK) and Koç University (Turkey), tackles key components of the UN's SDGs 5 (gender equality), 11 (sustainable communities) and 12 (responsible production and consumption). The project aims to articulate and find solutions to Turkey's challenges by studying the dynamics of sustainable foodways in the province of Manisa, and especially the agency of women, through an exploration of ancient and traditional diet and processing practices. As archaeologists, we leverage the legacies of food, bringing a deep knowledge of the past into the present. Using archaeobotanical (ancient plant) data from the two archaeological sites of Kaymakçi and Sardis we explore the way people continuously produced food in this region for over 4000 years. Here practices of the past may provide a pathway towards a more sustainable future; there are valuable lessons to be learned from the way people negotiated massive cultural, religious and climatic changes. Training and education in archaeobotanical research aims to enhance this under represented discipline within Turkish archaeology and provide new employment opportunities, especially for women. We also seek to understand more broadly how contemporary communities have shifted their practices given the challenges faced by Turkey's current LMIC status. In collaborative and capacity building workshops with members of rural and urban Manisa communities, we will engage in two-way conversations. Participants will cook traditional foods and discuss their own experiences and solutions to the struggle with modernity while we will discuss our archaeobotanical findings with the aim of linking past and present landscapes. The outcomes of our research will be disseminated through traditional academic methods and a range of public-facing activities. Our archaeobotanical findings, in peer-reviewed articles and available on open access databases will make a significant contribution to Turkish archaeobotanical research and ancient foodways more broadly. We will unite our archaeological work with the workshop data to create a free exhibition in Istanbul and a cookbook (hardcopy and free PDF download). Visitor surveys will create an engagement feedback loop, allowing visitors to articulate their own experiences of a changing foodscape. With Manisa and Istanbul as case studies, we hope to expand upon our results to aid Turkey and other LMICs find the necessary medium between sustainability, food security and globalization.