IMPACT+ environmental Index Measures Promoting Assessment and Circular Transparency in fashion

重大挑战在于整理、分析和评估为确定整个时装和纺织品价值链中的产品、工艺和行为的环境影响评估(EIA)而产生的数据。这些问题的根本原因在于，在量化影响时，缺乏标准化的测试方法，并导致缺乏行业信任，许多品牌都制定了自己的影响衡量方法。此外，英国政府在2021年制定了绿色索赔代码，该代码实施治理，以避免公司做出未经证实或不准确的环境声明，这往往会导致洗白指控。例如，开云集团开发了自己的环境损益工具，该工具依赖于来自品牌和供应商的主要数据的自我报告方法，将影响与财务进展联系起来。相比之下，Pangaia与Green Story(项目合作伙伴)合作，采用了使用13个影响指标的生命周期分析(LCA)方法。这些不同的测量方法进一步增加了环境影响评价模糊的边界，并阻碍了整个行业的可比性。此外，所产生的数据正被用于为政策制定、行业行动和消费者行为提供信息，这意味着可靠、真实和可用的环境影响评估数据至关重要。目前环境影响评估方法遇到的关键问题包括：-核对：产生的数据在价值链内被分阶段隔离，导致措施分散，妨碍可比性；数据收集方法依赖于缺乏核实的品牌/供应商的自我报告；可获得需要资金支持的环境影响评估工具，限制了透明度和数据获取--分析：缺乏确定环境影响和对环境影响进行分类的标准化测试方法；小规模或有限的数据集被放大并在未经证实的情况下应用；来自资金来源或董事会成员的既得利益，对数据的生成和解释产生偏见-评估：没有考虑衡量因素之间的共线性，没有认识到初级、二级和三级影响；利益攸关方和学科的不同努力导致缺乏集体行动；缺乏可接受的环境影响基线和门槛；针对无效使用可持续性尺度阻碍理解和可比性的问题，Impact+网络旨在：1)从科学(环境、法医和数据)和时尚设计界收集关键知识，以检查当前环境影响评估方法(例如，Higg指数、欧盟生态标签、Good on You)的可靠性、真实性和可用性；2)建立世界领先的多方利益相关者网络(品牌、制造商、零售商、纺织品回收商和消费者)，以提高产品、过程和行为的环境影响评估的透明度和准确性。这将通过在24个月的项目期间内实施一项合作活动方案来实现，该方案分4个方法阶段(P)：P1--影响+专题讨论会；P2--影响分析；P3--学科跳跃；P4--超越影响+。中心将是NetworkPlus资助的项目，这些项目将通过4个不同领域的学科跳跃活动来探索环境影响：材料、制造、消费者使用和生命周期结束。项目和学科之间的批判性对话将形成循环的知识体系，以产生创新的见解和新的知识。将在4个关键领域(学术、行业、消费者、政策)产生影响，每个领域都有助于知识的进步，以改进环评指标的整理、分析和评估。这将反映在主要项目产出中，包括：跨学科混合方法；利益攸关方共同创建的框架；通过出版展示的新知识；影响+网络的遗产。

Significant challenges lie in the collation, analysis and assessment of data generated to determine the environmental impact assessment (EIA) of products, processes and behaviours throughout the fashion and textiles value chain. The root cause of these problems lies in the absence of standardised test methods when quantifying impact and has led to a lack of industry trust, with many brands developing their own ways of measuring impact. Adding further, is the development of The Green Claims Code in 2021 by the UK government which implements governance to avoid companies making unsubstantiated or inaccurate environmental claims, often leading to accusations of greenwashing. Kering for example, have developed their own Environmental Profit and Loss tool that relies on self-reporting methods of primary data from brands and suppliers to relate impact to financial progress. In comparison, Pangaia in collaboration with Green Story (project partner) adopt a lifecycle analysis (LCA) approach using 13 impact metrics. These diverse measurement methods further add to the blurred boundaries of EIA and prohibits comparability across the industry. Furthermore, data generated is being utilised to inform policy development, industry action and consumer behaviour, meaning reliable, authentic, and useable EIA data is paramount. Critical issues encountered with current EIA methods include: - Collation: data generated being siloed by stages within the value chain resulting in fragmented measures and preventing comparability; methods of data collection relying on self-reporting from brands/suppliers with a lack of verification; accessibility to EIA tools requiring financial buy-in, limiting transparency and data accessibility- Analysis: a lack of standardised test methods to determine and categorise environmental impact; small or limited data sets being scaled up and applied in unsubstantiated contexts; vested interest from funding sources or board members creating biases with the generation and interpretation of data- Assessment: no consideration of the collinearity between measured factors, failing to acknowledge primary, secondary, and tertiary impacts; disparate efforts from stakeholders and disciplines resulting in the lack of collective action; an absence of accepted baselines and thresholds for environmental impact; the invalid use of sustainability scales impeding understanding and comparability In response, the IMPACT+ Network aims to: 1) assemble critical knowledge from the scientific (environmental, forensic and data) and fashion design communities to examine the reliability, authenticity and usability of current EIA methods (e.g., The Higg Index, EU Ecolabel, Good on You); 2) build a world-leading, multi-stakeholder network (brands, manufacturers, retailers, textile recyclers, consumers) to build a greater level of transparency and accuracy in the EIA of products, processes and behaviours. This will be achieved through the delivery of a collaborative programme of activities, across the 24-month project duration and structured across 4 methodological phases (P): P1 - IMPACT+ Symposium; P2 - Impact Analysis; P3 - Discipline Hopping; P4 - Beyond IMPACT+. Central to this will be NetworkPlus funded projects that will explore environmental impact through discipline hopping activities in 4 different areas: materials; manufacturing; consumer use; end-of-life. Critical dialogue between projects and disciplines will develop circular knowledge systems to generate innovative insights and new knowledge.Impact will be generated across 4 critical areas (scholarship, industry, consumers, policy), each contributing to the advancement of knowledge to improve the collation, analysis, and assessment of EIA metrics. This will be reflected in key project outputs including: cross-disciplinary hybrid methodologies; a stakeholder co-created framework; new knowledge demonstrated through publication; the legacy of the IMPACT+ Network.