Screen-to-measure: A practice-based, formative and historical study of Edith Head's costume designs in the 1940s noir thrillers

这项研究的目的是找出20世纪40年代派拉蒙工作室的伊迪丝·海德的服装部门是如何获得屏幕上看到的服装的，并追溯和分析图案设计师如何将待看的设计转变为可穿戴的服装。该项目将研究电影摄影在多大程度上影响服装设计(反之亦然)，以及图案如何在待观察的美学和服装的体现之间发挥中介作用。通过这项研究，我将调查电影服装设计的创作过程(特别是图案设计作为一种工艺和艺术实践的作用)，它与电影摄影、电影风格和流派的关系以及服装设计的历史。借鉴形式主义的方法，应用服装理论的理论框架，我将询问观众和拍摄的服装之间的关系如何作为一种需要和复制的时尚性范例。这个项目将结合基于实践的研究方法和档案研究。它将借鉴比较历史研究的方法论。笔者以实践为基础的研究方法，从筛选出的服装开始，追溯到图案设计。通过分析这位女演员的灯光、摄影、装帧和身体动作，我打算对放映后的服装进行摄影分析。这项形成性研究将通过艺术研究获得的知识来完成，在其中我将分析涉及的各种艺术实践以及伊迪丝·海德与片场其他人之间的关系。

The purpose of this research is to find out how Edith Head's costume department at the Paramountstudios in the 1940s got to the costumes seen on screen and to trace back and analyse how patterndesigners transformed the to-be-looked-at designs into wearable garments. The project will study towhat extent cinematography influenced costume design (and vice versa) and the ways in whichpatterns function as mediators between a to-be-looked-at aesthetic and the embodiment of the dress.Through this research I will investigate the creative processes of designing film costumes(particularly the role of pattern design as a craft and an artistic practice), its relation tocinematography, film style and genre and the history of fashion design. Drawing on a formativeapproach and applying a theoretical framework of costume theory, I will ask how the relationshipbetween the audience and the filmed costumes works as a paradigm of fashionability to be desiredand reproduced.This project will combine practice-based research methods and archival research. It will draw on themethodology of comparative historical research. My practice-based research methods start from thescreened costumes and trace back to the pattern designs. By analysing the lighting, photography,framing, and the movements of the actress' body, I intend to conduct a cinematographic analysis ofthe screened costumes. This formative study will be completed by the knowledge obtained througharchival research, in which I will analyse the various artistic practises involved and the relationsbetween Edith Head and other people on the set.