Queer Fashion: Examining LGBTIQ Identity, Aesthetics and Commerce in London as a global city.

本文旨在通过杂志文本话语分析和对伦敦酷儿时尚创意人士的采访，分析“酷儿时尚”一词所调动的话语，探讨“酷儿时尚”的各种定义。在2015年至2019年的分析期间，酷儿时尚，或者一些可以属于这个总括术语的元素，经历了一场主流化。这种主流化的突出例子包括“另类”演员偏好的增加，男女皆可和“无性别”时装系列，每年针对骄傲的商品，以及伦敦酷儿时装秀等活动和Art School Collective等品牌背后的势头。通过时尚来识别酷儿已经从被编码和地下化，转变为自豪和有利可图。由于伦敦作为全球时尚之都的地位，以及其众多、多元文化和活跃的LGBTQ+社区，伦敦融入了这一新兴现象。本文将探讨酷儿时尚创意在个人身份、社区参与和商业实践之间的联系，并以此为目的，为现有的性、时尚和市场研究提供一种创新的干预。它的目标是通过描绘酷儿时尚的主要参与者、干预地点，以及美学实践、激进主义和商业之间的联系，来定义酷儿时尚。

This thesis aims to investigate the various definitions of "queer fashion" by analysing the discourses that the term mobilizes through magazine textual discourse analysis and interviews with queer fashion creatives based in London. Queer fashion, or some elements that can fall under this umbrella term, has experienced a mainstreaming through the analysed period of 2015 to 2019. Prominent examples of this mainstreaming include a rise in 'alternative' casting preferences, unisex and 'agender' fashion collections, yearly targeted Pride merchandise, and the momentum behind events such as London Queer Fashion Show and brands such as Art School Collective. Queer identification through fashion has moved from being encoded and underground, to proud and profitable. London is embedded in this emerging phenomenon due to its status as a global fashion capital and its numerous, multicultural and active LGBTQ+ communities. This thesis will investigate what connections queer fashion creatives draw between personal identity, community participation, and commercial practices, and with this it aims to offer an innovative intervention into existing research on sexuality, fashion and the market. Its objectives are to define queer fashion by mapping its key players, sites of intervention, and the connections forged between aesthetic practices, activism and commerce.